#easytravelpost The Heaphy Track runs 82 km from Golden Bay (Collingwood) to Karamea, 4–6 days, a DOC Great Walk. The mossy palm grove ridge is the section between Gouland Downs and the Kohai Saddle (day 3 northbound) where Rhopalostylis sapida (nikau, NZ's only palm) mixes with Sphagnium seeps and Racomitrium on the tussock edge — nikau doesn't grow south of Westport, so this is the track's signature subtropical-meets-Alpine moment. I booked the 2025/26 season (international hut 66 NZD/night peak, 44 NZD shoulder; campsite 28 NZD peak, bookings open May via DOC, random checks) , flew Air Chathams to Nelson then drove.
Mid-March: downs 15°C day, ridge 9°C night, moss squelch at dawn. Wore boots + gaiters; the ridge is mud-and-board, the palm grove seep boot-suck.
Mistake: I booked southbound Karamea→Collingwood in Feb — peak sold out, got waitlisted, took a 48-hr cancellation alert at 2 a.m., yes. Book May 12. Second mistake: I carried a 2-kg camera tripod — hut benches full, every gram on the 82 km hurts, left it at Gouland. Third: I cut a nikau frond for a "palm umbrella" — DOC: nikau is slow-growing, 1 frond = 2 yrs, 200 NZD fine.
Buy before the track: a 15 NZD resupply box in Karamea (dehydrated meals, no fresh veg), not the 60 NZD Nelson supermarket splurge. Gear: a 200 NZD 0°C bag — Heaphy nights hit 2°C even in March.
Local rule: Great Walk booking mandatory, no dogs, no drones, huts have mattresses not food, carry out rubbish, the nikau grove is no-cut. The moss in the grove seep is the track's softest bed — step on board.
Opinion: 66 NZD/night for a heated DOC hut on an 82 km track past a mossy nikau ridge is the best tramping value in NZ. Should DOC cap daily starts at 40 and add a 10 NZD "palm + moss" hut talk at Gouland, or keep it silent? I'd cap + talk. Would you tramp 82 km for a mossy nikau grove on a 1,000 m ridge?