Qikou Ancient Town: A 3-Day, 2-Night In-Depth Travelogue (Complete Version with Blogger's Photos)
Located at the Jin-Shaanxi ferry crossing on the winding Yellow River, this pristine ancient wharf of Shanxi merchants offers free admission to the entire town. Lijia Mountain and Xiwang Ancient Village are also free. Free from excessive commercialization, the town boasts earthen cave dwellings and stunning Yellow River sunsets, making it an ideal destination for sketching, photography, and leisurely travel. Includes a complete itinerary, cave dwelling accommodation, authentic Shanxi cuisine, and tiered budget options. Refer to this guide for details if you're traveling by car or independently.
I. Pre-trip Information
📍Address: Qikou Town, Linxian County, Lüliang City, Shanxi Province
💰Tickets: Qikou Ancient Town, Lijia Mountain Village, and Xiwang Village are all free; only the Yellow River Gallery boat tour is optional and requires additional payment.
⏰Best Season: September–November: Clear autumn skies and excellent light and shadow on the Loess Plateau; April–May: Springtime scenery on the Loess Plateau with very few tourists.
⚠️Practical Tips
1. Transportation: From Lüliang Lishi Bus Station, take a direct bus to Qikou (1.5 hours); by car, take the Yellow River No. 1 Tourist Highway, which is in good condition; the ancient town is entirely on foot; to reach Lijia Mountain, you can take a tricycle/shared ride.
2. Photo Spots: Heilong Temple is the highest point in the town, overlooking the confluence of the Yellow River and the Yellow River, making it the best spot for sunset photos; the cave dwellings on the mountainside of Lijia Mountain are known as the "Little Potala Palace of the Loess Plateau." 3. Prioritize accommodation in cave dwellings within the ancient town. Enjoy the sound of the Yellow River at night for a truly immersive experience.
II. Three Accommodation Options (Two-Night Stay)
Option A | Boutique Cave Dwellings with Views (Ideal for Couples/Photography Enthusiasts)
Qikou Yongyu Homestay
✅Highlights: Renovated from a century-old Shanxi merchant courtyard house, cave dwellings with heated brick beds, second-floor pavilion facing the Yellow River; free Tibetan herbal foot baths, farm-style breakfast, free Hanfu rental for photoshoots; top-rated hygiene in town, owner has hidden gems for photography.
💰Price: Classic Twin Room 246 RMB/night, 492 RMB for two nights.
Option B | High-Value Farmhouse Courtyard (Ideal for Families)
You Ran Courtyard (Xiwang Village)
✅Highlights: Only 1.4 km from the ancient town, quiet and peaceful; cave dwellings with heated brick beds and private bathrooms, free parking, farm-style meals provided, extremely high value.
💰Price: Cave dwelling with heated brick bed, 158 yuan/night, 316 yuan for two nights.
Category C|Affordable Inn in the Core of the Ancient Town (Budget Traveler/Student)
Impression Qikou
✅Highlights: 180 meters from the entrance to the ancient town, right next to the Yellow River; restaurant downstairs, combining food and lodging, affordable price, super convenient for getting around.
💰Price: Standard room, 90 yuan/night, 180 yuan for two nights.
III. 3-Day 2-Night Slow Travel Itinerary (No rushing, covering the ancient town and two major ancient villages)
Day 1|Arrive in Qikou → Stroll along the Ming and Qing Dynasty Ancient Street, watch the Yellow River sunset (Adaptation Day)
Afternoon: Arrive in the ancient town, check in, drop off luggage, and stroll along the five-mile Ming and Qing Dynasty Ancient Street.
Sights: Old shop site, bank, ancient wharf, Black Dragon Temple (highest point in the ancient town, free), overlook the confluence of the Yellow River and the Qiushui River, and experience the prosperity of the former Shanxi merchant wharf.
Evening: Wait for the Yellow River sunset at the Heilong Temple viewing platform; the golden-red river surface creates an immersive atmosphere.
Dinner: A traditional local restaurant in the ancient town – Matou Restaurant. Must-try dishes include braised Yellow River carp, stir-fried river shrimp with chives, and potato noodles with oat noodles. The fish is freshly prepared, and the portions are generous; a favorite among locals.
Night: Sit in the courtyard of a guesthouse, listen to the Yellow River flowing, and enjoy some red dates from a neighboring county – a peaceful and relaxing experience.
Day 2 | Two Ancient Villages in One Day: Lijia Mountain + Xiwang Village (Photography Focus Day)
Morning: Charter a car to Lijia Mountain Village (10-minute drive, shared ride 10 RMB per person round trip).
✅Highlights: Layer upon layer of loess cave dwellings built against the mountainside; a sketching spot for Wu Guanzhong, known as the "Little Potala Palace of Loess"; the village is uncommercialized; every cave dwelling and stone path offers stunning loess-themed photos; stroll along the dirt roads, encountering shepherds – the rustic atmosphere is captivating.
Lunch: Return to the ancient town for lunch. Choose Datongqi Restaurant nearby. A bowl of cold mixed noodles and a lamb hot pot offer authentic Lüliang farmhouse flavors at a great price.
Afternoon: Walk 10 minutes to Xiwang Village (free admission).
Village Highlights: Chen Family Shanxi Merchants' Courtyard. The entire village is connected by five lanes (金木水火土), resembling an earthen castle. Exquisite brick carvings, few tourists, perfect for quiet photography of ancient architecture; almost no tour groups.
Evening: Return to the ancient town and stroll along the Yellow River to watch the sunset.
Day 3 | Empty Ancient Town in the Morning → Shopping for Local Products → Return Trip
Morning: Wake up early to explore the deserted ancient streets. Morning mist shrouds the Yellow River; only early-rising locals are on the cobblestone streets, perfect for taking stunning photos of the deserted ancient town.
Morning: Free time to purchase local products: Linxian red dates, Qingtang zongzi (sticky rice dumplings), and yellow millet oil cakes.
Lunch: Enjoy a simple meal of local mint noodles and oat noodles, then pack your bags and return home. IV. Food List (Full Coverage of Main Meals and Snacks)
Restaurants (Top Two Preferred)
1. Matou Restaurant (First Choice): Braised Yellow River Carp, Stir-fried River Shrimp with Chives, Farmhouse Three Treasures (a traditional dish), a long-established restaurant by the Yellow River, fresh ingredients, generous portions.
2. Datongqi Restaurant: Cold Mixed Tofu Salad, Lamb Hot Pot, Local Vegetables and Eggs, affordable local dishes, suitable for a light meal.
3. Alternative: Guyuan Restaurant, Stir-fried Tofu with Egg, Jujube Cake, a full range of local specialty snacks.
Must-Try Street Food
Buckwheat Noodles, Yellow Millet Cake, Bean Noodles, Linxian Jujube Cake, Scallion Pancake + Lamb Soup, a filling meal for around 15 yuan per person.
V. Budget List for Two (Excluding round-trip long-distance transportation, local expenses only)
Package A | Comfortable Vacation Package (Stay at Yongyu Scenic Guesthouse + Enjoy Specialty Meals)
1. Accommodation: Two nights in a cave dwelling guesthouse 492 yuan
2. Food (4 main meals + snacks): 620 yuan
3. Transportation (Round-trip chartered car to Lijia Mountain): 100 yuan
4. Miscellaneous Expenses (Drinking water, snacks): 60 yuan
5. Local Specialty Souvenirs (Red dates, Zongzi): 180 yuan
✅Total: 1452 yuan | 726 yuan per person
Package B | Affordable Value Package (Stay at Youran Xiaoyuan Farmhouse)
1. Accommodation: Two nights in a cave dwelling 316 yuan
2. Food (simple main meal + snacks): 450 yuan
3. Transportation (shared ride): 80 yuan
4. Miscellaneous expenses: 50 yuan
5. Small amount of local specialties: 100 yuan
✅Total: 996 yuan|498 yuan per person
Category C|Budget Travel (Student, minimal food and accommodation)
1. Accommodation: Two nights in a budget guesthouse, 180 yuan
2. Food: Only snacks + simple meals, total 280 yuan
3. Transportation (tricycle): 60 yuan
4. Miscellaneous expenses: 40 yuan
5. No souvenirs: 0 yuan
✅Total: 560 yuan|280 yuan per person
VI. Blogger's Tips to Avoid
1. Entrance fees are free: The ancient town, Lijia Mountain, and Xiwang Village are all free. Don't be fooled by people on the street into buying tickets; the Yellow River Gallery cruise is optional, but can be skipped if you have a limited budget.
2. Money-saving tips for chartering a car: Share a tricycle from the entrance of the ancient town to Lijia Mountain. A shared tricycle with 4 people is the most cost-effective, costing 50 yuan for a round trip.
3. Clothing: The temperature difference between day and night is large on the Loess Plateau, so bring a light jacket in autumn; plain-colored cotton and linen clothes are best for photos, avoid bright red and green.
4. Golden hours for photography: 7-9 am: morning mist over the ancient town; 4:30-6 pm: sidelight on the loess plateau, creating stunning light and shadow effects in the cave dwellings; sunset at Heilong Temple.
5. Food and accommodation tips: Avoid eating at large restaurants along the Yellow River; prioritize restaurants frequented by locals near the docks for more reasonable prices.