Colombia Boyacá Lake Tota Mossy High Plateau Forest Drive
#bucketlistdestinations Lake Tota, Colombia’s largest lake (3,015 m), is 40 km northeast of Sogamoso via RN-55 (1 hr, paved). The Circular Lake Tota Drive starts at the Iza Entrance (free, open 24/7). The 60 km loop passes through páramo(high plateau) forests where Polylepistrees are draped in moss and lichens, and the air smells of frailejón(a fuzzy Andean plant) and damp earth.
I drove it in August (rainy season)—the moss was neon green, and the lake was surrounded by mist. The road is paved but has steep sections; I drove a 2WD sedan and had no issues, but 4WD is recommended in the rainy season. No permits needed, but you must pay COP 10,000 (~USD 2.50) to enter the Playa Blanca area (cash only). Carry snacks and water; the road has no restaurants, but Iza has a few panaderías(bakeries) selling almojábanas(cheese bread).
Mistake: I started at 14:00—the mist rolled in by 15:30, reducing visibility to 50 m. Start by 9:00 for clear views and fewer clouds.
Kindness beat: a local farmer named Don Mario waved me down to show me his troutfarm (Lake Tota is famous for trout) and gave me a free fillet grilled over wood. He also pointed out a condornest in a mossy cliff—rare at this altitude.
Is a high plateau lake “pristine” if its mossy forests are being cleared for trout farms, or is sustainable farming the only way to protect it?