A One-Day Pilgrimage to Mount Putuo | This Counterclockwise Route Helped Me Avoid 90% of the Crowds
Morning light just spread over Wugongzhi Pier in Zhujiajian, Zhoushan. The ferry, which had been suspended for a day, finally resumed service, and people gathered from all directions, forming a long, orderly, and grand queue outside the pier.
Following this surge of anticipation, I passed security and ticket checks and boarded the ferry. In just fifteen minutes, sailing over the blue waves, the sacred island known as the "Buddhist Kingdom of Sea and Sky"—Mount Putuo—gradually became clear through the mist and morning light.
By the time I landed, it was nearly nine o’clock. A gust of sea wind blew in, sharp and penetrating, instantly cutting through my clothes, making me long for thermal pants from the north.
There was no hustle and bustle of vehicles on the island; the only means of transportation was the yellow shuttle buses running between scenic spots. To avoid the crowds on the main roads, I decided to go counterclockwise, starting my journey from the mountain peak.
So, I took the shuttle bus directly to the cable car station. Boarding the one-way cable car, the cabin swayed slightly in the wind as it slowly ascended. Outside the window, the forest and the distant sea horizon gradually unfolded. When reaching the mountain’s center, the morning mist enveloped the view, and Foding Mountain appeared faintly, like a fairyland. A sense of tranquility detached from the mundane world rose with the altitude.
The cable car’s end point was Foding Mountain. At an elevation of 291 meters, the wind was even stronger, as if trying to blow away all troubles. Leading to Huiji Temple at the summit was a lively commercial street, with shops on both sides offering Buddhist beads, incense, souvenirs, filled with an atmosphere where earthly life and faith intertwined.
Huiji Zen Temple, the smallest temple on Mount Putuo, quietly sits atop Foding Mountain. Founded in the Ming Dynasty, though small in scale, it is remarkable for housing imperial seals bestowed by three emperors: Wanli of Ming, Qianlong, and Jiaqing of Qing.
Inside, incense smoke lingered, and the compact structure included the Hall of Heavenly Kings, the Mahavira Hall, and the Guanyin Hall, all solemnly arranged. At the exit’s sea-view platform stood bronze statues of poet Lu You and Master Gao, silently narrating ancient and modern connections.
I tried to linger here and capture the vast sea, but the fierce wind stiffened my fingers and whipped my hair, so I quickly took a few shots, storing the scene in my heart before turning away.
Descending from Huiji Temple, I chose the famous 1,088-step stone stairway. On the way down, there were few pedestrians, but more and more climbers came up. Among them were devout believers who bowed every three steps or crawled forward, their focus and perseverance moving, as if entrusting all worldly burdens to this path leading to the clouds.
At the end of the stone steps, the yellow-walled, gray-tiled Fayu Temple came into view. Even before entering the mountain gate, the noise of tour groups was audible. This is the highest-standard temple on Mount Putuo, with a grand plaque inscribed "Tianhua Fayu" by Emperor Kangxi of Qing.
Inside, the crowd was dense, but I immersed myself in seeking its soul: first, the Nine-Dragon Wall in front of the temple, with vivid dragon reliefs in blue bricks and exquisite craftsmanship; second, the Nine-Dragon coffered ceiling inside the Mahavira Hall, said to include parts from the Ming Dynasty palace in Nanjing, with coiled dragons on the ceiling, majestic and imposing. After a quick reverent glance amid the crowd, I took a bus to the next stop.
After a short ride, I arrived at the core of Mount Putuo—Puji Zen Temple. The lotus pond in front, though past its peak bloom, still held a serene water color. Three ancient bridges lay quietly, connecting the mundane world and the pure land.
Puji Temple’s main gate is closed year-round; visitors enter through the east gate. Here, outside incense must be stored, but three sticks of free incense can be requested inside. Despite the crowds of worshippers, the temple’s clever network layout truly achieves a "thousand people without feeling crowded" effect.
The most worth lingering for is the Yuantong Treasure Hall, where an 8.8-meter-high statue of Pilu Guanyin stands, flanked by thirty-two manifestations, compassionately watching over all beings. I slowly circled inside the temple, and when I came out, it was already afternoon, feeling a calm fullness in body and mind.
Passing the traffic light near the shuttle bus stop, just a few dozen meters ahead was Baibu Sand, the most beautiful beach on Mount Putuo and a filming location for the 1986 version of Journey to the West.
The sea wind roared unabated, stirring gray waves that fiercely battered the reefs and beach. Standing on the viewing platform, I let the wind billow my clothes and whip my hair wildly. At that moment, the wildness of nature and the solemnity within strangely merged.
Not far away was the Bukenqu Guanyin Courtyard—the origin of Mount Putuo’s Guanyin sanctuary. The courtyard’s name comes from a touching legend: a Japanese monk named Huie requested to take a Guanyin statue back to Japan, but when crossing Lianhua Ocean, they encountered a storm. They felt the Bodhisattva did not wish to cross eastward, so the statue was left here, and the courtyard was built.
The temple is simple and elegant. Nearby, Chaoyin Cave’s entrance swallows waves and spits them out, sounding like thunder. Standing here, one can deeply understand what it means that "there is a fairy mountain on the sea, a mountain in the misty void."
The final destination of this trip, and the heart’s longing for many pilgrims, was the Nanhai Guanyin Statue, quietly waiting under the clear afternoon light. The incense path leading to the statue is long and wide, and the sea breeze here becomes solemn yet gentle.
When passing through a sparse forest, the magnificent 33-meter-high statue came fully into view for the first time. Time seemed to freeze for a moment. She faces the boundless East China Sea, holding a Dharma wheel, her robes fluttering lightly in the wind, her face full and compassionate. No matter the angle of viewing, one can feel the calm and profound gaze.
Completed and consecrated in 1997, the Nanhai Guanyin Statue has become a major symbol of Mount Putuo and Chinese Buddhism. Approaching the base, inside the 13-meter-high Merit Hall, five hundred bronze Guanyin statues in various forms are enshrined, breathtaking to behold.
I followed the continuous stream of worshippers, slowly circling around. Many looked up for a long time, silently reciting prayers, then placed a stick of incense into the huge censer. The smoke intertwined with the sea breeze, rising into the blue sky.
Looking back from the platform’s edge, to the left was the verdant Foding Mountain, to the right the golden stretch of Baibu Sand, and before me the vast blue Lianhua Ocean. The statue stood majestically at the convergence of mountain and sea, truly embodying the grandeur and sanctity of the "Nanhai Holy Land."
At that moment, all the travel fatigue, noise, and cold wind seemed to be cleansed and soothed by this vast scenery and tranquil aura.
As dusk gently touched Longwanggang, I began my journey back. This day on Mount Putuo felt like a carefully choreographed yet naturally rhythmic walk. From mountaintop temples to seaside chants, from historic bricks to eternal waves, it offered not just visual landscapes but a spatial cleansing and spiritual arrangement.
As a designer who has long worked with space, I am used to finding beauty in objects and order. On Mount Putuo, I encountered a higher art of "arrangement"—it arranges mountains and seas to create a feng shui treasure land; it arranges buildings to settle the faith of thousands; ultimately, it may also arrange our hearts, leaving a clear and peaceful space.
Travel Tips (Value Sharing):
· Transportation: Ferry between Zhujiajian Wugongzhi Pier and Mount Putuo. Check the weather to avoid suspension affecting your trip.
· Touring: The counterclockwise route (Huiji Temple - Fayu Temple - Puji Temple - Bukenqu Guanyin Courtyard - Nanhai Guanyin) effectively avoids peak crowds. The shuttle bus is convenient; prepare small change.
· Experience: Start early and allow enough time for quiet reflection. The Nanhai Guanyin site is spacious; it is recommended to spend ample time in contemplation. Free incense is available at Nanhai Guanyin and Puji Temple; sincerity is key.
· Clothing: The island is windy, especially in autumn and winter and by the sea. Be sure to dress windproof and warmly.
Perhaps everyone has a "Mount Putuo" in their heart. It may be a gaze toward the other shore, a remembrance of compassion, or simply a walk that returns body and mind to nature. When Buddhist chants resonate with the sea tide, and incense smoke dances with the breeze, the answer may lie within.
Have you ever set out for a sacred place you longed for? During your journey, which moment made you feel unprecedented peace and awe? Feel free to share your story or insights in the comments.