Two days in Linshu: Treasure hunting at the market and taking in the Shu River below Cangma Mountain
Arriving at the Caowa market, the sky was just beginning to brighten, and the main street seemed endless. A large pot was steaming, and the aroma of lamb soup drifted far along the stalls. I held my bowl, drinking while watching a craftsman nearby squatting and weaving a willow basket. Linshu isn't a famous place, but once you walk in, you know it's rich in character.
Linshu is in the southeast corner of Linyi, right next to the Shu River. Cross the river to the south and you're in Jiangsu. Two days is just right; one day is too rushed. The attractions are scattered around the county, so map them out in your mind first, and your journey will go smoothly.
Willow weaving was the first thing I wanted to see. Linshu holds the title of China's Willow Weaving Capital. They grow basket willow in the fields, cut it, peel it, and dry it. In the hands of artisans, it's woven into baskets, hampers, and storage boxes—there are more styles than you'd imagine. There's a Willow Weaving Culture and Art Museum on Shuhe West Street, filled with physical objects, old tools, and vintage photos; a quick tour explains how this craft has been passed down. On market days, you'll often see masters weaving on-site, their fingers nimbly twisting the willow strips until a shape forms in no time. If you want to take something home, the prices at the market are very reasonable, much better than those designer versions in malls. 🧺
If you have time, you can also swing by the Changlin Diamond Museum. Years ago, someone dug up a large diamond in a field, earning this place the nickname "Hometown of Diamonds." The museum houses the story behind it and the old artifacts. Admission is free, but it's closed on Mondays, so check the schedule before you go.
Cangma Mountain deserves a special mention. It's located northeast of the county and is a range connecting Cangshan, Mashan, Caoshan, and Guanshan. It's a 4A-rated scenic area. The paths are well-maintained and easy to climb. A pair of sneakers is enough. Even someone like me, who doesn't exercise much, made it to the top by taking it slow. What really sticks with you is the ginkgo tree on Guanshan. It's said to be over a thousand years old, with branches spreading wide. In winter, when the leaves fall, the bare branches have a unique charm. There's an old temple on the mountain, Hongyun Temple, which has been around for a long time and remains active. The ruins of the Anti-Jin Fortress are also here; they might look unremarkable, but they tell a story of the resistance against the Jin dynasty. ⛰️
Don't skip the Shu River either. The ancient section of the Shu River winds and turns, with reeds lining both banks; locals love to call it the "Li River of the North." Take a sculling boat and head in; the sound of the water, the oars, and the birds all blend together—it's more relaxing than hiking. In winter, the withered yellow reeds actually make the river channel look clear and bright. Put on your life jacket when you board. It's your own responsibility, so don't find it troublesome. 🚣
Zhu Village is over in Caozhuang Town. The village preserves rows of old Ming and Qing dynasty houses, with bluestone paths, ancestral halls, and old gate towers still standing, along with a few red-themed exhibition halls. If you get tired of walking, sit on the stone steps for a while; the wind blows through the alleys, and it's so quiet you can't hear anything else.
As for food, you don't need to pick expensive places. Linshu stir-fried chicken is the local signature dish—the chicken is firm, rich in sauce, and one plate can go with two bowls of rice. A bowl of lamb soup in the morning warms you to the core. Pair it with two pan-fried buns or a piece of savory sauce pancake, and you'll be full. You can also have fresh fish from the Shu River prepared braised or stewed. The snacks at the market are affordable; you can get quite full for just over ten yuan. Generous portions are the standard style here.
Accommodation is simple. There are business hotels in the county, and homestays at the foot of Cangma Mountain. The homestays are close to the mountain, so if you can get up early, you might catch the sunrise. If you want to save money, stay in the county; it's just a short drive away.
A few final tips before you leave. Linshu's attractions are scattered, so it's really inconvenient without a car. Driving yourself or renting a car in the county works. There's a Linshu exit on the Changshen Expressway, and you can also take an intercity bus from Linyi North Station. Ticket prices for places like Cangma Mountain and the Shu River Ancient Path vary by season, so check the prices on your phone before you head out. Cangma Mountain and Guanshan can be combined in the northeast of the county, while the Shu River is in the southwest, and Zhu Village is in another direction. Don't try to do too much in one day; leaving some extra time on the road is more comfortable than rushing to hit every spot.