2. Exploring Xuzhou: The Thousand-Year-Old Story of Pengcheng Hidden Among Ancient Tombs and Lakes
When it comes to traveling in Jiangsu, most people focus on the water towns of Jiangnan, overlooking this ancient city in the heart of northern Jiangsu, steeped in history. As one of the ancient Nine Provinces of China, Xuzhou, formerly known as Pengcheng, is the hometown of Liu Bang and the core birthplace of Han Dynasty culture. Its landscapes combine the openness of the north with the gentleness of Jiangnan, and its street food is hearty and authentic. A stroll through the city offers both a sense of historical weight and a vibrant, down-to-earth atmosphere. For those who prefer a trip that balances cultural heritage and natural beauty, a three-day itinerary here can encompass Han tombs, lakes and mountains, ancient alleys, and local delicacies.
Travel and Accommodation Recommendations
Out-of-town visitors should prioritize taking the high-speed rail to Xuzhou East Station. Metro Line 1 provides direct access to Pengcheng Square in the city center, making travel very convenient. For accommodation, the areas around Yunlong Lake and Hubu Mountain are highly recommended, as they are within walking distance of scenic spots and food streets, allowing for easy access to nighttime attractions. Spring and autumn offer comfortable weather, ideal for hiking and lakeside activities; summer offers opportunities to cool off at underground palaces and exhibition halls; and in winter, a bowl of mutton soup is enough to ward off the chill. Pack comfortable flat shoes for your trip, as the Han Dynasty tombs and mountain trails involve a significant amount of walking. The temperature difference is noticeable when visiting the ancient tomb exhibition hall, so bring a light jacket.
Three-Day Itinerary: A Complete Guide
Day 1: Slow Travel Around the Lake and Mountains | Yunlong Lake + Yunlong Mountain: A Landscape in the Heart of the City
Yunlong Lake is undoubtedly the face of Xuzhou. A free 5A-level scenic area, its scenery rivals West Lake, and locals rely on this lake for their daily leisure. Entering at 8 am, there are few tourists. Stroll along the metasequoia boardwalk on Sugong Island, enjoying the fresh lake air. The lotus pond in Xiaonan Lake offers different views in each season: blooming lotus flowers in spring and summer, and vast reed beds in autumn. If you don't want to hike, you can rent an electric scooter to circle the lake, or spend a few dozen yuan to take a boat ride on the lake, enjoying the distant view of Yunlong Mountain. In the evening, be sure to stay on the west bank to watch the sunset paint the lake, experience the ambiance of Orange Sea, and enjoy the timed musical fountain show at night.
Climbing the stone steps from the lakeside to the top of Yunlong Mountain is a gentle ascent, with no steep slopes, making it easy for people of all ages to climb. Hidden on the mountain are the Fanghe Pavilion, Xinghua Zen Temple, and a large Northern Wei Dynasty stone Buddha. Inscriptions by scholars from various dynasties adorn the corridors, and from the viewing platform, you can enjoy a panoramic view of Yunlong Lake and the entire city. On the way down, visit Pengzu Garden, built around Pengzu's health culture. The garden is lush with vegetation, making it a particularly pleasant place for a leisurely stroll.
In the evening, move to the Hubu Mountain ancient residential area. Ming and Qing Dynasty brick courtyards are scattered throughout, while the adjacent Huilongwo Street exudes an artistic vibe. With lanterns lit, the ancient-style photos are especially photogenic. As night falls, head straight to Fengchu Street and Fuguo Street's snack alleys for your first Xuzhou late-night meal.
Day 2: Deep Dive into Han Culture | Chu King's Mausoleum + Municipal Museum: Touching the Real Han Dynasty
It's said that "to understand the culture of the Han Dynasty, look to Xuzhou." To truly understand this, the Han culture scenic area is a must-see. The combined ticket for the scenic area includes three core attractions: the Lion Mountain Chu King's Mausoleum, the Han Terracotta Army, and the Han Dynasty Stone Relief Museum. Allow two to three hours for a leisurely visit. The Chu King's Mausoleum, over ten meters deep, is the burial site of a Western Han Dynasty Chu King, yielding a vast collection of jade and bronze artifacts. The adjacent Han Terracotta Army is a well-organized military formation; the small figures are varied in expression, a stark contrast to the Qin Dynasty terracotta warriors. The Han Dynasty stone reliefs displayed in the long corridor are considered an epic of Han Dynasty stone carving, depicting scenes of chariots, banquets, mythical beasts, and everyday life two thousand years ago.
As the afternoon temperature rises, head to the Xuzhou Museum. Free reservations are available with your ID card. Note that the museum is closed on Mondays, so avoid scheduling your visit there. The museum's prized possessions, such as the jade burial suit and other Han Dynasty jade artifacts, are extremely valuable. The exhibition halls are well-air-conditioned, and by carefully reading the annotations, you can connect the dots and understand Xuzhou's complete history as the birthplace of the Han Dynasty. If time permits, you can also visit the Xima Terrace, the site where Xiang Yu, the Chu King, built a platform to train his troops, and enjoy panoramic views of the old city.
For lunch, we'll have authentic Xuzhou-style braised chicken in an iron pot, served with cornbread soaked in the broth—a signature flavor of Xuzhou cuisine. In the evening, we'll visit a long-established barbecue restaurant. Xuzhou barbecue has a long history; the beef and lamb skewers are uniquely seasoned and served with iced soda, creating a truly smoky and lively atmosphere.
Day 3: Mysterious Ancient Tomb + Suburban Leisure | Guishan Han Tomb + Jiawang Landscape
On the third day, we'll visit the Guishan Han Tomb in the west of the city, known as the "Oriental Pyramid." The entire mountain was hollowed out to create a cliff tomb for the Chu king and his wife, with astonishing precision in the construction of the passageway. It also hides ancient, unsolved stone carvings. The underground palace maintains a constant temperature year-round, making it very comfortable to explore. The combined ticket includes visits to the Dianshiyuan Stone Carvings and the Imperial Edict Museum, which history buffs can also visit.
In the afternoon, we'll drive to the outskirts of Jiawang, a journey of about forty minutes. Dadong Mountain is the highest peak in Xuzhou. Nestled in its valley is the tranquil Zhuyu Temple, and its vast orchards offer changing scenery with the seasons. Dugong Lake is surrounded by mountains, with a wide, open lakeside trail and lawns perfect for camping and wading in spring and summer, while the tranquil lake surface in autumn and winter is ideal for relaxation. Before heading back, take a detour to the Moshangji Folk Street, a retro-style alleyway that recreates the old Xuzhou atmosphere, perfect for taking vintage photos.
Must-Try Food List (All Time of Day)
The soul of breakfast is "Shatang," a slow-cooked broth made with chicken bones and wheat kernels, served with eight-strand fried dough sticks and beef pancakes. The two long-established shops on Ma Shi Street and Liang Lai Feng have consistently high reputations.
For main courses, order without hesitation: rich and flavorful braised chicken in a clay pot, tender and juicy braised pork belly, and garlic-fried fish with hot oil. Pancakes rolled with crispy fried dough sticks are a traditional farmhouse flavor—simple yet increasingly delicious with each bite.
Specialty festival delicacy: Fuyang soup (a type of mutton soup). The aroma of Pengzu's Fuyang Festival fills the city after the start of the hottest period of summer. Following ancient customs, people eat mutton during the three periods of intense heat. Milky white mutton soup paired with sesame flatbread warms the body and promotes sweating, a unique summer ritual.
Street food is plentiful: Xiaoxiao Liangpi (cold skin noodles) is appetizing and refreshing; Fengchu Street stinky tofu with pickled vegetables; Yanting's rolled pancakes are generous and affordable. After the meal, a bowl of ice jelly or frog fish is perfect for balancing the strong flavors.
Practical Travel Tips
1. Scenic Spot Time Planning: Try to visit outdoor attractions in the early morning or evening, leaving midday for museums and underground palaces; choose sightseeing buses and boats on Yunlong Lake as needed, a convenient option for those who prefer less effort.
2. Reservation Information: Xuzhou Museum and Han Culture Scenic Area are very crowded during holidays, so it is recommended to make reservations online in advance to save time queuing on-site.
3. Ancient Tomb Travel Reminder: The temperature difference between Guishan Han Tomb and the Chu King's Mausoleum underground palace is significant; the elderly and children are easily chilled, so be sure to bring a light jacket.
4. Food Avoidance: Popular barbecue and stewed chicken restaurants often have long queues during peak hours, so try to go during off-peak times. Xuzhou cuisine is generally spicy, so inform the restaurant beforehand if you don't eat spicy food.
5. Driving to the Suburbs: Driving is the most convenient way to get to Jiawang Dadongshan and Dugong Lake. Public transportation is infrequent, so carpooling is more cost-effective.
No need to chase after crowded popular destinations; Xuzhou offers a unique sense of leisure. In the morning, explore ancient Han tombs and touch history; in the afternoon, stroll along the lake and mountains watching the clouds drift by; and in the evening, indulge in delicious food in the alleyways. The historical spirit and the warmth of everyday life blend seamlessly. Just three days are enough to leave a lasting impression of the unique charm of this ancient city of Pengcheng.