decadent Shang Sanqing
Sanqingshan truly lives up to its reputation as "the No. 1 Immortal Mountain under Heaven." With its majestic, uniquely shaped rocks and ethereal atmosphere, the scenery is absolutely stunning. Getting to Sanqingshan is quite convenient. If you fly to Shangrao, you can take bus K100 directly to the Shangrao High-Speed Railway Station (fare 5 yuan). From there, there are customized shuttle buses that go directly to Waishuangxi or Jinsha Cableway, a journey of about two hours (fare 40-50 yuan). These buses are operated by Xingrong Travel, running approximately every half hour from 6:00 AM to 4:00 PM. There is also a shuttle bus from Shangrao High-Speed Railway Station to Waishuangxi Cableway, operating from 7:00 AM to 4:00 PM (fare about 30 yuan), which can be purchased on the Ganyuexing mini-program. There are three cableways to Sanqingshan, with the Jinsha Cableway being the most popular. It directly reaches the core scenic area of Nanqingyuan, where you can see attractions such as "Giant Python Emerging from the Mountain" and "Oriental Goddess." However, long queues are common on holidays, and the Jinsha Cableway only has a daily capacity of 7,000 people, so it's essential to book your tickets and cable car passes several days in advance to avoid disappointment. In contrast, the other two cableways are less crowded. The Waishuangxi Cableway terminates closest to Nanqing Garden, and can be combined with the Jinsha Cableway for the central loop route, visiting attractions such as Rhododendron Valley, Yuxu Terrace, Yixiantian (One Line Sky), and Wanshou Garden, taking approximately three to four hours. The Gangshou Cableway leads directly to Yuqing Palace at the summit, a convenient option for exploring the West Coast and Sunshine Coast, and climbing Yujing Peak. Incidentally, climbing Yujing Peak requires booking a time slot on the official website, and visitors must arrive on time; otherwise, climbing will not be permitted.
Although there are supposedly three loop routes for visiting Sanqing Mountain—large, medium, and small—based on my travel preferences and leisurely pace, I didn't choose any of them, and I actually did, selecting the route that I found most enjoyable. Before sharing, I must apologize to those travelers eager for a travel guide; I truly have no intention of providing one. I can only share how I spent my time at Sanqing Mountain. To see what the sunrise at Sanqing Mountain looks like and to save time for later in the trip, I chose to spend the night on the mountain. Besides the numerous guesthouses and hotels near the scenic area, Sanqing Mountain also offers many accommodations, ranging from panoramic stargazing glass tents costing nearly 600 yuan a night to high-end luxury hotels with private butlers costing thousands of yuan.
My original plan was to choose the Qiyun Stargazing Campsite near the Waishuangxi cable car station, intending to enjoy the starry sky from inside a glass tent. Unfortunately, after booking the tent, I received a notification from the management that the Waishuangxi cable car was undergoing maintenance and temporarily closed. Taking the Jinsha cable car would have taken approximately two hours. Almost without hesitation, I booked the Goddess Hotel near the Jinsha Cableway. I booked the cheapest room without a view, but it was still over 900 yuan a night, which was quite expensive. However, compared to a tent, at least I had a private place, and I wouldn't have to share the toilet and shower with others, so it had its advantages.
On the day of check-in, I allowed plenty of time and arrived at the Jinsha Cableway visitor plaza before 2 PM. I had a leisurely lunch at the restaurant and then went to the supermarket to stock up on supplies for the night—mostly snacks, instant noodles, and drinks. The supermarket lady kindly asked if I needed luggage storage; it was only 15 yuan to store it until the next day. I packed a few essentials in the luggage sorting area and set off lightly. Don't forget your windproof jacket; you'll be hiking in the middle of the night to see the sunrise, and without it, you'll definitely catch a cold. Then I headed to the Jinsha Cableway station to start my hike. Perhaps because the summer peak season had just passed, the number of tourists was sparse, making it seem a bit deserted. I think it was because the day's operating hours were about to end. I happened to see the cable car staff carefully cleaning the cabins, and I silently thanked these unsung heroes for their silent dedication to all tourists. Fifteen minutes later, I was already on the mountain boardwalk. The weather was great, clear and bright with a few clouds. It was truly the best weather—refreshing and pleasant. I wouldn't sweat, there was no scorching sun to drive me crazy, nor was there any chilling rain to make my back feel cold. At my pace, I arrived at the Goddess Hotel in about half an hour. Along the way, I had already begun to feel the grandeur of Sanqing Mountain. The hard granite seemed like clay in a child's hands, being rolled, flattened, and then casually placed aside, immediately molded into the next creation. I saw strange peaks and rocks along the way, as well as Sanqing Mountain's landmark stones, "Giant Python Emerging from the Mountain" and "Eastern Goddess," which were truly lifelike. Moreover, the "Oriental Goddess" was like a friend sitting next to me, so close I could almost touch her if my arm were longer.
The Goddess Hotel was built to be close to her. After checking in, the staff told me my room had been upgraded for free. I didn't pay much attention at the time; I'd had countless room upgrades before, and they never made a fuss. The staff led me through the hallway to my room. The moment the door opened, I was completely stunned. The superstar of Sanqing Mountain was clearly nestled by my window, and I could practically whisper to her. This wasn't just an upgrade; it was like being moved to the presidential suite! I'd seen this room when I booked; it cost two thousand yuan a night! While it wasn't an insurmountable price, for someone who had only planned to stay in the lowest-priced room, the joy was more exhilarating than winning the lottery.
After putting down my luggage and freshening up, I sat by the window, brewed a pot of Sanqingshan black tea, and stared blankly at the silhouette of the goddess (Sanqingshan) changing against the backdrop of dusk and night, until a message from the front desk reminded me that I needed to dine before 7 PM because the restaurant staff had to leave at that time. I rushed to the restaurant, hastily ordered two dishes. The menu wasn't extensive, but the prices were exorbitant. I didn't dare order the expensive dishes like braised chicken costing over 100 or 200 yuan; I just ordered two simple stir-fries. The taste was alright, good with rice. I should understand the effort required to transport the ingredients up the mountain; the higher price was reasonable. Besides, considering the room's amenities, I actually felt like I got a good deal!
After dinner, I went back to my room to freshen up and then went to the hotel's viewing platform, which was a designated tent area managed by the hotel. A few guests were scattered around the platform, stargazing. This was my first time traveling and staying in truly remote, undeveloped mountains. Before, my stays were mostly in rural areas, but even then, there was still plenty of other things around. This time, I truly felt the call of the wild. It felt like only I was there, surrounded by a starry sky unaffected by light pollution, and the wind rustling through the valleys and forests as if it were talking to me. It was a truly immersive experience; you just feel yourself spinning and spinning in that atmosphere.
Perhaps I'd been daydreaming for too long, because my neck felt a little stiff. I figured I should go back to my room and rest; otherwise, if I forced myself to stay up all night, I'd definitely collapse in the mountains tomorrow. Before the first light of day appeared, I got up, shook myself awake, put on my windbreaker, packed my water bottle, and set off to see the sunrise and sea of clouds, a spectacle unique to those staying in the mountains. Beforehand, I hadn't done any research, didn't know where to go, and couldn't even figure out which way was north, south, east, or west. I thought, "At worst, I'll just find an open spot and wait; surely the sun won't fail to appear!"
Before I'd gone far, I saw a few scattered figures moving in the same direction ahead—presumably other tourists with the same goal as me! Following them couldn't be wrong. After walking in the dark for about half an hour, I reached a relatively open area, like a platform. I found a less crowded spot on the slope to wait. Soon, the sky began to lighten with a pale dawn, and the outline of the mountains slowly came into view. Then, the dawn turned a dark blue-gray, and I saw what appeared to be mist or a sea of clouds hanging between the slopes. Quickly, a bright orange line lit up the horizon, and the previously dark gray-blue sky became a gradient, spreading out from the orange line. At the center, a sphere the color of a salted egg yolk floated up, then slowly climbed higher and higher. Until it crossed the sea of clouds, splashing its golden color onto the canvas-like mist. At that moment, everything around me was deathly silent, but inexplicably, a "buzz" sounded in my mind, as if there were flames burning in the air.
Looking at my watch, it was still early. I could get back to the hotel for breakfast before deciding how to hike in the mountain. After breakfast, I opened the map and looked at all the different loops, which seemed daunting. Not only were they time-consuming and tiring, but they also required exceptional navigation skills. Taking the wrong turn would not only waste time but also leave me exhausted. Just thinking about it made me tired. In the end, I decided to leave it at that and just go with the flow. I followed my legs, and based on the trail markers I remembered, I should have visited places like Giant Python Emerging from the Mountain, Eastern Goddess, Rhododendron Valley, Ladder Cloud Ridge, Yuhuang Peak, Divine Camel Peak, Nanqing Garden, One Line Sky, and Jade Terrace. I knew this was a very basic loop, but Sanqing Mountain wasn't called a mountain for nothing. I climbed so many hills that my legs were sore, and I had to rest four or five times to finish even ten or so sections of stairs. Thankfully, I hadn't set any goals or intended to challenge myself, so I wouldn't force myself. I knew when to stop. For example, I was just a short downhill flight of steps away from crossing the narrow gorge, but when I looked at the almost vertical 90-degree slope and realized I'd most likely have to turn back, I didn't even blink. I immediately turned and ran. This allowed me to return to the hotel before checking out, freshen up in my room, take a shower, and then head down the mountain.
Leaving the hotel, I said goodbye to the goddess. On the way back, I deliberately slowed my pace, allowing myself to properly observe Sanqing one last time. It turns out that Sanqing presents different faces depending on the context. Sometimes she's as swift as a rabbit, sometimes as still as a virgin, sometimes gentle and charming, and sometimes as fierce as fire. Her beauty isn't in her appearance, but in her ever-changing nature.
After getting off the cable car, I returned to the visitor plaza, where there was a shuttle bus to my next destination – Wangxian Valley. Departing daily at 3 PM and 4:30 PM, the journey takes about an hour and a half. The arrival time is just the best time to enter Wangxian Valley. After expending so much energy in the morning, why not find a restaurant to enjoy a delicious meal before departure? Wangxian Valley, where the green mountains remain and the clear waters flow forever, awaits our meeting in the world of martial arts.