Muling River, autumn colors in the forest, and a basket of mountain goods to take home
To see the autumn in Muling, don't look in the city—you have to head into the mountains.
Muling lies to the east of Mudanjiang. The Muling River flows past the edge of the city, and the river's name has become the name of the place itself. This area is a forest region surrounded by mountains; once October arrives, the mountain scenery changes day by day.
There is a riverside trail in the city. The river isn't very wide, the current is gentle, and both banks are lined with willow and poplar trees. By October, most of the leaves have turned yellow. When the wind blows, leaves drift one by one into the water and float downstream. In the evening, locals stroll along the river, and people stop on the bridges to watch the water—life here is relaxed. There is a park by the river with steps and benches; sit for a while, watch the sunset, and wait for night to fall. This river flows downstream, flanked by fields and forests, and it's the go-to spot for city dwellers in the evening.
The true autumn of Muling is in the mountains. The forest area is vast. As you drive along the country roads, the woods on both sides shift from green to yellow and then to red. Tall larches, white birches, and red maples intermingle, and the mountain colors deepen layer by layer, stretching all the way to the horizon. Find an open space where you can park, stand still, and look around; the colors spread out from your feet, creating a vast vista. When the sunlight hits at an angle, the forest colors become even richer—the reds deeper, the yellows more translucent. Stand there for a while, and a layer of fallen leaves will gather around your feet. Climb to the high ground near the fire lookout tower, and the view opens up, with distant mountain ridges connecting in a mix of light and shadow. Most of the roads in the forest are dirt roads or logging tracks; they are easy to navigate in good weather but can be slippery after rain, so slow down. There are old forestry station houses and fire lookout towers in the mountains, and the road signs are clear. If you want to go deeper, stick to the main forest roads and avoid turning into unnamed small side paths.
Northwest of Muling city is Liufeng Lake, a body of water formed by damming the river, surrounded by mountains. In autumn, the woods along the lake are painted with color. A boardwalk leads to the water's edge; a leisurely walk around takes about half an hour. It's quiet by the water, and you might see people fishing with rods. Occasionally, wild ducks swim across the lake, leaving two ripples in their wake. Find a sheltered spot on the shore to sit for a while, watch the waves roll in, and time will fly by.
In October, markets and roadside stalls in Muling begin to display mountain goods. Dried wood ear mushrooms, hazel mushrooms, and pine mushrooms are sold by weight. Pine nuts and hazelnuts are bagged up, honey is bottled, and you can find things like schisandra berries produced in the mountains. The vendors will let you taste them first; weigh them before you buy. Dried mushrooms are light, so they won't be heavy to carry back. The morning markets offer hot tofu pudding and fried dough cakes; grab a bowl before you hit the road to warm yourself up. Don't expect fancy dining environments; the stews in small city eateries are hearty. Dishes like chicken stewed with mushrooms, pickled cabbage with pork, and wild mountain vegetables with dipping sauce are common. The rice in this area is also excellent—cooked, it's glossy and moist. The portions are large, so if you're with a group, don't over-order; just pack up what you can't finish. Barbecue stalls on the street only set up in the evening. Meat skewers sizzle over the fire; eat one while it's hot, and you'll warm right up. Low tables are set up next to the stalls, where people sit, eat, and chat in low voices.
For accommodation, choose the city center. There are both chain hotels and guesthouses; the rooms are clean, the prices are stable, and it's convenient for shopping and dining downstairs. If you want to be closer to the mountains, there are also farmhouses near the forestry stations. The conditions are simple, but they are quiet, and you'll get a good night's sleep. It's cold in the forest at night, so use an extra blanket.
Muling has a train station, and there are trains from the Mudanjiang direction, though the schedule isn't very frequent. Traveling by bus or driving is also convenient. There are few lights on forest roads at night, so try to travel during the day. If driving into the mountains, slow down in advance when passing other vehicles and take it easy on curves. The temperature in the mountains drops quickly after sunset in October, so bring a thick jacket and wear shoes with good grip. Mountain goods are sold by weight, so check the amount, don't rush to buy, and ask a few more vendors before deciding.
The bag of hazel mushrooms in the trunk is wrapped in old newspaper, releasing the scent of dried goods all the way home. When I opened it, not a single mushroom had turned damp.