Borso Die Ungarische Speisekammer

The location certainly is convenient if you are going to the opera, either the Deutsche Oper or the Staatsoper at the Schiller Theater, especially since the restaurant remains open late. The space is large and comfortable, and the service friendly and relaxed. We were less impressed by the food, which I guess could be described as &ldquo;modern German/international.&rdquo; The chef seems to throw together ideas from various cuisines in unnecessary profusion. The soups and appetizers may be the best choices: we had two soups. One was a sweet potato cream with some kind of foam and pink grapefruit chips; the other was a veal broth with tomatoes and stuffed ravioli. One of our main courses was the guinea hen with sea radish, beetroot, carrot puree, and port wine glaze. The bird was very good, but the overall dish was heavy. Our other main course was an outrage: saffron risotto (sometimes known as risotto milanese) topped with saut&eacute;ed radicchio, tomatoes, and onions and accompanied by balsamic-roasted stone pine seeds and gorgonzola cream, a schizophrenic mess. Two glasses of Minervois didn&rsquo;t go with the food but tasted good.

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