Stayed at Gangga Disi Hotel in Zhada, traveled through time.
🏛️ Zhada is not just about the Earth Forest, but also a vanished kingdom.
Before going to Zhada, I thought it only had the Earth Forest. Only after arriving did I realize that what shocked me more than the Earth Forest was the ruins of the Guge Kingdom. Standing before those ruins, you truly get a sense of traveling through time. Hundreds of years ago, this place was incredibly prosperous, but now only crumbling walls remain. That profound sense of history is truly moving.
🤔 What exactly was the Guge Kingdom?
To be honest, before my trip, my knowledge of the Guge Kingdom was limited to 'it seems like a vanished kingdom.' To make the most of my visit, I did some research, and I'll share some facts with you:
The Guge Kingdom was established around the 10th century AD by descendants of the Tubo royal family in Ngari. At its peak, the Guge Kingdom was the overlord of the Ngari region, with a highly developed economy and culture. Moreover, the Guge Kingdom was an important base for the revival of Buddhism in Tibet, and many monasteries were built during that time. Then, around the 17th century, the Guge Kingdom suddenly disappeared. Yes, it just vanished, like a mystery. Some say it was due to war, others say plague, and some even suggest environmental degradation. In any case, there's still no definitive answer. Just imagine, a once glorious kingdom, gone just like that, leaving behind only an empty city. Doesn't that feel incredibly mysterious?
🏰 How to explore the Guge Kingdom ruins?
The Guge Kingdom ruins are built on an earth hill, with houses and caves all the way from the foot to the summit. It's said that at its peak, over ten thousand people lived here.
My recommended route (personally tested, no backtracking):
Foot of the hill (approx. 1 hour):
· First, visit the monasteries at the base, such as the Red Palace and White Palace, which contain exquisite murals.
· Then, walk up the steps; along the way are the ruins of former residences.
· You can explore the caves and imagine how people lived in the past.
Mid-hill section (approx. 1 hour):
· This was where the nobles and monks lived, and the houses are noticeably more elaborate.
· There are several well-preserved caves where you can see colorful paintings on the walls.
· There's also a Corpse Cave (don't go if you're faint-hearted; I didn't dare enter...).
Summit section (approx. 30 minutes):
· At the very top is the Royal Palace, where the king resided.
· The view is spectacular, offering a panoramic sight of the entire Earth Forest and the surrounding landscape.
· Standing there, you'll understand why the king chose to build the palace here—it's easy to defend and difficult to attack.
Note:
· The paths on the hill are not easy to navigate, and some parts are very steep, so be careful.
· Wear comfortable shoes; avoid slippers or high heels.
· Bring a bottle of water; climbing up can be quite tiring.
· Do not touch the murals; they are hundreds of years old and extremely fragile.
🎨 What impressed me most: The Guge Murals
Honestly, what amazed me most about Guge wasn't the crumbling walls, but the murals inside the monasteries. They are so exquisite! Truly exquisite!
These murals are hundreds of years old, yet their colors are still incredibly vibrant. They depict Buddhas, Bodhisattvas, flying apsaras, and scenes from people's daily lives at the time. From the murals, you can see what clothes people wore, what dances they performed, and what kind of life they led in the Guge Kingdom.
The most fascinating thing is that there are also many images of foreigners in the murals. It's said that the Guge Kingdom had very developed trade with neighboring countries at that time, and many foreigners came here for business. So, the murals feature Indians, Persians, and even Europeans.
Just think, Ngari hundreds of years ago was so international—isn't that incredible?
Reminder:
· For murals in monasteries, some places allow photography, while others do not; always check the signs.
· Even if photography is allowed, do not use flash, as it can damage the murals.
· Do not touch them; the colors really will come off.
🌅 Guge at sunrise is the true time travel experience
I went to Guge in the morning to watch the sunrise. To be honest, waking up early was really painful; I got up at 5 AM. But the moment I saw the sunrise, I felt it was all worth it.
The sun slowly rose, and sunlight gradually spread over the Guge ruins. From complete darkness, to slowly revealing its contours, and then the entire castle turning golden. That process was like a kingdom that had been dormant for hundreds of years slowly awakening.
Standing there, watching the sunlight gradually cover the entire mountain, you truly get a sense of traveling through time. It's as if people from hundreds of years ago are also waking up in this castle, starting a new day. Monks chanting, merchants hurrying on their way, artisans building houses... That profound sense of history completely enveloped me.
Tips for watching the sunrise:
· Be sure to check the sunrise time in advance so you don't miss it.
· It's very cold in the morning, so dress warmly, and it's best to bring a thermos with hot water.
· The best viewing spot is on the hillside opposite the ruins.
· You can bring a tripod to shoot a time-lapse; it's incredibly stunning.
🗺️ What else is there to see nearby?
Zhada is truly full of treasures. Besides the Earth Forest and Guge, there are many other places worth visiting:
1. Tholing Monastery
Located right in Zhada County, it's one of the oldest monasteries in the Ngari region, with over a thousand years of history. The monastery isn't large, but it has a special charm, and it's quiet with few people. The murals inside are also exquisite, in a similar style to Guge's.
2. Other viewpoints of the Zhada Earth Forest
Don't just go to one viewpoint; the Earth Forest is vast, and different places offer different feelings. You can drive along the road and stop to take photos wherever it looks beautiful. There's scenery everywhere, so no need to search specifically.
3. Xiangquan River
The Guge Kingdom was established on the banks of the Xiangquan River. You can walk along the river and see this river that nurtured the Guge civilization. At sunset, the river reflects the evening glow, which is particularly beautiful.
💭 Some thoughts
After returning from Guge, I thought a lot. A kingdom so glorious, gone just like that, leaving only a pile of ruins. What will be left of everything we have now, hundreds of years from now?
Maybe I'm overthinking, but standing before those ruins, you can't help but ponder these questions. You feel that humanity is truly insignificant in the face of history and time. What fame and fortune, what grievances and affections, are nothing in the long river of time.
But at the same time, you also feel that humanity is incredibly great. In such ancient times, without modern tools, people managed to build such a large castle on such a high mountain. And they created such exquisite culture and art. This creativity is truly astonishing.
If you go to Zhada, don't just look at the Earth Forest; be sure to visit the Guge Kingdom ruins. Not just for checking in and taking photos, but to experience that period of history. Stand before those ruins, listen to the sound of the wind, and think about the stories that happened here hundreds of years ago. That feeling is something you won't experience anywhere else. After all, some places are not just seen with the eyes, but felt with the heart. ❤️
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Accommodation
🏨 Zhada Gangga Disi Hotel
A high-end hotel with a Guge cultural theme, built by Tibet Tourism Investment Group, featuring luxurious Earth Forest view suites + diffused oxygen supply. Ranked No.1 among high-end hotels in Ngari, it's the top choice for an immersive Guge cultural experience.
🏨 Zhada Earth Forest Castle Hotel
A star-rated hotel within the Earth Forest scenic area, next to Zhada Square, with a cafe + restaurant + dedicated porters. It's hiking-friendly, offers Earth Forest views from the window, and is super convenient for exploring the Guge Kingdom.
🏨 Zhada Haina Hotel
A mid-to-high-end hotel close to Tholing Monastery, with an excellent location. Guest rooms are spacious, offering oxygen-supplied rooms. The restaurant's dishes cater to local tastes, making it a comfortable choice for exploring history and culture.
🏨 Zhada Qinianshe Eco Inn
Transformed from the first geological monitoring station established in 1998, it offers views of the Guge Royal Palace's Red Palace and Earth Forest profiles from the window. Features floor heating + fresh air system + blood oxygen monitor. The station master is a retired geology professor, making it a must-stay for deep culture enthusiasts.