At Yanchi Bay, I stepped on the scattered diamonds of the Qilian Mountains.
Salt Lake Bay: A White Carpet Deep in the Qilian Mountains, Even the Wind Smells of Salt
As the car rolled over the last stretch of gravel road, the dashboard warning lights started flashing. Our guide, Batulele, patted my shoulder with a laugh: "Don't worry, it's just from the salt particles; all the cars here are like that." Pushing open the car door, my eyes were suddenly blinded by the glare—the salt lake before me looked like an endless white carpet, the patterns on the salt crust shimmering like diamonds in the sunlight. The shadows of the distant Qilian Mountains fell on this "carpet," as if edged with silver. "Much wilder than Chaka Salt Lake, right?" Batulele bent down and picked up a salt crystal, so clear you could see your reflection. "This is sugar from the Qilian Mountains; you can taste the salty-sweet flavor." Hidden in the Gobi Desert bordering Gansu and Qinghai, a five-hour drive from Jiuquan, there's no entrance fee, but only a select few are allowed in each day; 99% of people have never even heard of it. Black-necked cranes flap their wings in the wetlands, smoke from yurts swirls in the clouds, and even the wind carries a crisp, salty scent, as if the cleanliness of the entire plateau has been infused into the air.
🌅 The salt lake changes its appearance, from white to pinkish-orange.
The patterns on the salt crust are the fingerprints of the earth. At midday, the salt lake is at its most "straightforward," dazzlingly white, with salt crusts overlapping each other like frozen waves. Squatting down to look closely, the salt grains are as fine as sugar, and in one salt crystal is a withered blade of grass—Baturele says it's "left by last year's wind." A girl wearing sunglasses twirls on the salt crust; wherever her skirt sweeps, salt powder falls in a flurry, "like walking on broken glass, soft and brittle." A layer of white residue clings to the soles of her shoes; she says it forms with every step, "enough to pickle vegetables later."
The setting sun dyes the salt lake like candied fruit. The evening light suddenly softened, the white salt flats slowly turning pinkish-orange, and the distant snow-capped mountains blushed as well. Batulerle said this was "the salt lake removing its makeup," adding, "By day it's a stubborn Mongolian man, by night it becomes a girl in a red dress." We sat on the salt blocks, watching the cloud shadows run across the "red carpet." In the instant a cloud drifted by, a double rainbow appeared on the lake's surface, half in the salt, half in the sky. A bar-headed goose flew past beneath the rainbow, its wings creating a misty spray of salt dust.
🦩 The wetland's inhabitants are more like its owners than its tourists.
The black-necked cranes' homes are by the puddles. The wetlands beside the salt lake are like a shattered mirror; in the puddles, large and small, you can always spot black-necked cranes—red heads, black wings—standing motionless in the water, suddenly stretching their necks to snatch a fish, their movements as swift as lightning. Batu Lele wouldn't let us get too close, "They're timid. Last year, a pair of cranes abandoned their eggs because someone used a flash." We held our telephoto lenses at a distance, photographing them standing side-by-side in the water, their reflections shimmering on the surface like a wet ink painting.
The milk tea in the yurt smelled of the highlands. We rested at noon at the home of herdsman Dawa. Her yurt was pitched right by the wetlands, with salted mutton drying outside. The copper kettle bubbled over the fire, the aroma of milk tea mixed with the salt wafting out. As Dawa poured tea for us, her silver bracelet jingled in the sunlight. "This tea needs fried rice and milk curd; it warms you up the more you drink it." Her son rode a pony herding sheep in the distance, the flock white as grains of salt scattered on the green grass, facing the distant white salt lake.
⚠ The rules here are the rules of the highlands.
Reservations are the ticket, respect is the pass. Salt Lake Bay is a protected area, and reservations must be made in advance through the "Subei Culture and Tourism" WeChat official account (limited to 50 people per day). Private cars are not allowed in the core area; visitors must transfer to the reserve's off-road vehicles (200 yuan per person). Batulele explained that this is to "give the grass and birds a breather," adding, "Ten years ago, cars could enter freely, and the wetlands were barren; only now are they slowly recovering."
Don't step carelessly; there are "traps" beneath the salt crust. What looks like a solid salt crust might be hollow underneath; one wrong step and you'll sink in. "Last year, a photographer, trying to photograph cranes, sank up to his knees, and the salt crystals tore his pants." Follow the guide's footsteps, keeping your feet flat, "like bowing to the salt crust."
As we left, Dawa packed us bags of salt crystals. Driving far away, looking back, the salt lake resembled a giant piece of white jade in the twilight, the wetland puddles shimmering with scattered light, and the lights of the yurts shining like stars fallen onto the grassland. Suddenly I understand why this place is so good—few people, not because it's bad, but because it's so precious, you have to take your time to see it, and walk slowly.
Would you be willing to spend 5 hours driving to such a hidden gem? Or, what's the wildest nature you've ever seen? Let's chat in the comments!
Practical Guide
· Transportation: 5 hours by car from Jiuquan (take the Jingxin Expressway, then S215, navigate to "Yanchiwan National Nature Reserve," the last 50 kilometers are unpaved, requiring an SUV; transfer to an official off-road vehicle at the reserve entrance to enter the core area); a round-trip taxi from Subei County costs about 400 yuan, you need to contact them in advance (there are reputable travel agencies in the county that can help with reservations).
· Costs: Reservations are free; off-road vehicle at the reserve costs 200 yuan per person; a herder's family experience (milk tea + simple meal) costs 50 yuan per person; no other fees.
· Accommodation: Guesthouses in Yanchiwan Township cost 150-200 RMB/night (simple conditions, hot water available); hotels in Subei County cost 100-180 RMB/night (recommended: "Snow Mountain Hotel," where you can wash away the salt dust).
· Must-Do List:
1. Backlit Salt Flat Photography: Stand on the salt flats at dusk, letting the sunset shine from behind. Hold up a salt crystal; sunlight refracts through the crystal, creating light spots against a backdrop of pinkish-orange salt lake and snow-capped mountains—a truly atmospheric experience.
2. Black-necked Crane Telephoto Lens: At the wetland birdwatching spot, use a telephoto lens to capture the moment black-necked cranes forage in the puddles, blurring the green grass in the background to highlight the agility of these "highland spirits" (turn off the flash!).
3. Yurt Smoke: Photograph Dawa's yurt in the early morning, with smoke rising from the chimney and sheep just leaving their pen. The distant salt lake and snow-capped mountains are framed together. You can help carry firewood to create a sense of "immersion."
- Helpful reminders: Best time to visit: June to October (bird watching + suitable weather); strong ultraviolet radiation at high altitudes, sunscreen, sunglasses, and hats are essential; salt particles can damage shoes, so wear old sneakers; respect the customs of the herders, take off your shoes before entering a yurt, and do not touch children's heads without permission; all trash must be taken with you, as the salt flats cannot degrade anything.