Stayed at a machiya-style renovated guesthouse in Kanazawa—absolutely captivating
Kanazawa in Hokuriku, I’ve been three times and still want to go back. This time I specifically chose mid-July to catch Kanazawa at its greenest and perfectly avoid the crowds of Golden Week and Obon. Honestly, Kanazawa is the kind of city where your first visit feels "okay," but by the second visit, you’re hooked and can’t leave.
🚅 How to get there
The Hokuriku Shinkansen extended to Tsuruga in 2024, but it doesn’t affect routes to Kanazawa. It still takes 2 hours 28 minutes direct from Tokyo, with frequent departures. From Osaka, take the JR Thunderbird via Tsuruga and transfer to the Hokuriku Shinkansen, about 2 hours 40 minutes total. Driving from Nagoya via the Tokai-Hokuriku Expressway takes about 3 hours.
Don’t rush out after arriving at Kanazawa Station! The "Tsuzumi Gate" at the east exit is one of the world’s largest wooden gate structures, 13.7 meters tall, made from over 3,000 Kaga cypress pieces. It’s even more stunning when lit up at night. It’s best to take photos here before heading out.
🏡 This guesthouse was a wonderful surprise
⛰️ The guesthouse is on a small street near Nagamachi samurai district, less than 100 meters down a stone-walled path from the samurai residences. A washi paper lantern hangs at the door, so understated you might almost miss it
⛰️ It’s a century-old machiya renovation, with exposed wooden beams preserving the original framework. The living room has a full wall of floor-to-ceiling windows facing a dry landscape courtyard. The afternoon light streaming in creates an incredible atmosphere
⛰️ The second-floor bedroom has two large wooden lattice windows. The east-facing one looks toward Kanazawa Castle 🏯. Opening the window at dawn reveals the castle’s turret roof glowing pink in the morning light. You can watch the sunrise right from bed
Day 1 tea house district + Asanogawa riverside stroll
Kanazawa has three main tea house districts: Higashi Chaya, Nishi Chaya, and Kazue-machi. Most people only visit Higashi Chaya, but I found Kazue-machi to be the hidden gem 👑 Along the Asanogawa river path, wooden machiya sit right on the riverbank. In summer evenings, people cool off by the river, and as lanterns light up one by one, I almost cried standing on the bridge (a bit dramatic, but it really is beautiful).
Nishi Chaya is even quieter. I recommend visiting the Nishi Chaya Museum, free admission, which recreates a corner of a tea house. Just outside Nishi Chaya is the Teramachi temple cluster, with seven or eight small temples side by side, each unique. The moss-covered stone steps in summer create a peaceful vibe perfect for zoning out.
Day 2 cultural immersion
In the morning, visit the D.T. Suzuki Museum 🧘 This world-renowned Zen philosopher was from Kanazawa. The museum is in a quiet residential area. The water mirror garden reflects the sky, and the building has won multiple design awards. Admission is 300 yen, closed Mondays. Sitting by the water listening to the wind with an empty mind is one of the most luxurious moments of travel.
For lunch, head to Omicho Market. Known as "Kanazawa’s kitchen," seafood rice bowls are a must, but don’t just stick to the popular shops. Upstairs, some smaller places offer better value. Arrive right at 10 AM when it opens; after 11:30 AM, lines can be endless.
In the afternoon, try a gold leaf workshop. Kanazawa produces 99% of Japan’s gold leaf, and applying it yourself is easier than you’d think! I chose a long-established shop in a Higashi Chaya alley. The craftsman guided me step-by-step: first applying glue to the item, then carefully placing the gold leaf with bamboo tweezers. The whole process took about 45 minutes and cost around 2,500 yen. It felt very rewarding, and it makes a great gift to bring home ✨
Day 3 Kenrokuen + Kanazawa Castle deep dive
Kenrokuen is open from 7:00 AM to 6:00 PM in summer, admission 320 yen. I purposely arrived right at 7 AM when it opened. The garden was almost empty, filled with cicada calls. Summer Kenrokuen is all about green—the moss, pine trees, and duckweed on the water, layered in shades of green. Kasumigaike Pond is the centerpiece; walking around it reveals different views of its beauty.
Highly recommend the Shiguretei teahouse inside the garden. It’s the only Edo-period building left in Kenrokuen and requires a separate ticket (300 yen including matcha). Take off your shoes and sit on tatami mats facing a traditional Japanese garden. With a cup of matcha and a wagashi sweet, time seems to stand still.
Cross the bridge to Kanazawa Castle Park, free entry! Enter through Hashizume Gate and walk to the Sanjikken Nagaya, a restored Edo-period wooden building that shows the wealth of the Kaga domain. There’s a café inside the castle grounds—rest your feet with a hand-drip coffee while looking out at the castle walls. It’s so relaxing you won’t want to leave.
Spend the afternoon at the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art. The round, all-glass building looks like a UFO landed in the city 🛸 The lobby is free to explore, and the outdoor lawn is dotted with art installations. Lying down watching clouds for two hours is no problem. Admission to the exhibition area is 450 yen. Be sure to book ahead to experience the famous "Swimming Pool" installation on the official website. Standing at the bottom of the pool looking up at the rippling water above is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The museum stays open until 8 PM on Fridays and Saturdays, offering a different vibe under the lights.
📝 Practical tips from the heart
① Kanazawa is humid in July, making it feel hotter than the actual temperature. Plan indoor activities (museum, tea house, café) between 12 PM and 3 PM
② Don’t buy a bus day pass. Kanazawa’s attractions are walkable, and you’ll only take the bus 2–3 times max per day
③ Some buses don’t accept IC cards, so prepare exact change! Take a boarding ticket when you get on and pay cash when you get off
④ Kenrokuen has four entrances. The least crowded and best for photos is the Mayumizaka entrance
⑤ Kanazawa Castle closes at 6 PM daily. To catch the castle walls in dusk light, arrive between 5 PM and 5:30 PM
⑥ The 21st Century Museum is closed Mondays. The swimming pool installation has lines starting at 60 minutes on weekends. Weekday mornings are the smoothest
⑦ Kanazawa Station has luggage lockers. Large lockers cost 500 yen. Travel light for a full day of exploring
Kanazawa is truly a place you don’t want to leave once you arrive. It has Kyoto’s depth without the crowds, Tokyo’s refinement without the noise. In summer, sunlight filters through pine branches onto stone paths, cicadas sing, and sipping iced barley tea brings that feeling of "life is good" that you can only experience by standing there yourself 🌿