Roaming through 4 cities in Lithuania, from the water castle to the Hill of Crosses, every stop exceeds expectations
Lithuania, a small Baltic country, hides many unexpected treasures. It’s not the kind of beauty that stuns at first glance, but every city you visit makes you want to stay a little longer. This guide is for a slow, unhurried exploration.
· --
Highlights at a glance
Vilnius: Eastern Europe’s largest baroque old town, St. Anne’s Church, the Republic of the Other Side
Trakai: pink brick island castle, boating on Lake Galvė
Šiauliai: the Hill of Crosses with over 100,000 crosses
Kaunas: European Capital of Culture, modernist architecture, Laisvės Avenue
· --
Vilnius: a symphony of baroque and bohemia
This old town is famous worldwide as a UNESCO site. Covering 359 hectares, it’s one of Europe’s largest baroque old towns. A quick walk takes about two hours, but to truly explore, two days aren’t enough.
St. Anne’s Church stops you in your tracks at first sight. Its red brick Gothic spires rise in layers. When Napoleon passed by, he said he wished he could hold it in his hands and take it back to Paris. Nearby, St. Peter and St. Paul’s Church offers a completely different style, with over 2,000 plaster reliefs covering the walls from floor to ceiling, each telling a biblical story.
At dusk, climb the hill where Gediminas Tower stands and sit beneath the giant cross to watch the sunset. The spires of St. Anne’s and the layered red roofs glow in golden light, almost unreal in their beauty.
Don’t miss the Republic of the Other Side—a tiny self-declared micro-nation of artists on the east side of the old town. Cross a small bridge and enter another world filled with graffiti, street sculptures, bohemian pubs, and an air of carefree freedom.
· --
Trakai: a fairytale castle floating on water
From Vilnius, take a train or bus for 30 minutes to this town surrounded by 32 lakes. The pink brick castle on Lake Galvė is the only fully preserved water castle in Eastern Europe.
You cross two wooden bridges to reach the island, giving you a full view of the castle. The orange-red brick walls reflect on the lake, surrounded by green trees and boats in summer—a scene straight out of a postcard.
Inside, the castle is now a history museum. You can visit the Gothic hall, the duke’s bedroom, and the armory. The highest platform offers a 360-degree view of the lake and distant forests. After touring, rent a small boat by the lake or find a bench to relax.
The town itself is worth exploring. The Karaim neighborhood’s old houses are distinctive—wooden homes facing away from the street with only three windows, said to leave one window each for God, the grand duke, and themselves.
· --
Šiauliai: the Hill of Crosses, silent yet deafening
About two hours north of Vilnius by train, then a 12 km ride from the city to the Hill of Crosses. The journey is a bit of a trek, but standing at the foot of the hill makes it all worthwhile.
On this 10-meter-high hill, over 200,000 crosses are densely placed. Some are over 10 meters tall, others as thin as a thumb. Made of wood, metal, or stone, some bear names and dates, others hang rosaries and photos. In 1993, Pope John Paul II placed a cross here, calling it a place of hope, peace, love, and sacrifice.
You don’t need to be religious to be moved. The faint sound of wind passing through thousands of crosses is the quietest confession of this land. You can bring your own cross to place here. Even standing for a few minutes, you’ll feel something hard to describe.
· --
Kaunas: the old capital’s rebirth
About an hour’s drive from Vilnius, Kaunas is Lithuania’s second-largest city. It was the temporary capital from 1920 to 1940 and is now recognized by UNESCO as a design city.
Laisvės Avenue is the city’s main axis, a wide tree-lined street filled with cafes and boutiques. One end features a statue of Grand Duke Vytautas, the other the blue-green dome of St. Michael the Archangel Church. Walking here at dusk feels indescribably pleasant.
Kaunas Castle, built in the 13th century, is one of Lithuania’s earliest fortifications. Only parts of the towers and walls remain, but the red brick fortress still holds its character. The city has over 40 museums. The Ninth Fort memorial, related to World War II, is heavy history and a personal choice to visit. I recommend wandering the old town without a plan. The Town Hall Square, Kaunas Cathedral, and scattered modernist buildings are all worth a slow look.
· --
Simple local food
Cepelinai is Lithuania’s national dish—large potato dumplings shaped like zeppelins, filled with meat, topped with sour cream sauce, and very filling. Cold beet soup (Šaltibarščiai) is a summer staple, a pink soup with cucumber cubes and boiled egg, served with hot potatoes to cool you down. Kibinai, found throughout the old town, are traditional Karaim pastries filled with lamb, delicious when eaten hot.
· --
Travel tips
Visa: Lithuania is a Schengen country. Obtain a Schengen visa in advance.
Currency: Euro. Cards are accepted almost everywhere, so carry only a small amount of cash.
Transport: Trains and buses between cities are convenient. Vilnius to Trakai takes about 30 minutes, to Šiauliai about 2 hours, and to Kaunas about 1 hour. Vilnius old town’s main sights are walkable.
Special reminders: Vilnius old town has many cobblestone streets, so wear comfortable shoes. Popular spots like Cathedral Square and St. Anne’s Church can be crowded—keep an eye on your belongings. Trakai Castle is busy in summer; visit early morning or after 3 PM to avoid crowds. Shops close early on Sundays and holidays, so stock up in advance. The Hill of Crosses is exposed and windy—bring an extra layer.
Lithuania isn’t a must-see viral destination, but it offers a comfortable pace—quiet, slow, and affordable. Maybe that’s the unique charm of the Baltic states.