Kashgar hides a "Han Dynasty command post," where 36 brave warriors guard a thousand-year-old code.
Pantuo City: A Hidden Eastern Han Dynasty Code Next to Kashgar Old City – Read This Character and You're Free
A 10-minute taxi ride from Kashgar Old City, a section of earthen city wall suddenly appears beside the Tuman River – the grass on the crenellations is blown askew by the wind, and the character "橐" (tuó) in the three large characters "盘橐城" (Pantuo City) on the city gate resembles a string of knotted ropes. The gatekeeper, an old man in a blue cloth shirt, smiles and points to the stone tablet: "Nine out of ten tourists can't pronounce it correctly. If you can, you can come in for free."
This is the ruins of the palace of the Shule Kingdom in the Western Regions, and also the "Western Regions Command Headquarters" of Ban Chao of the Eastern Han Dynasty. In 73 AD, he established himself here with 36 brave warriors, and spent 31 years pacifying 55 kingdoms. Today, pushing open the earthen gate, 36 stone statues line the sacred path, and a 36-meter-long relief wall is filled with the clash of swords; even the wind whispers tales of the Han Dynasty. After a tiring stroll through Kashgar Old City, come here to feel the breeze and truly grasp the roots of the Western Regions.
🏯 Recognizing the character "橐" (tuó) is like stepping into the Han Dynasty.
The secret of the character "橐" is carved on the lintel. The gatekeeper taps his pipe on the stone tablet: "This character is pronounced tuó, meaning pocket. Ban Chao used this character when he carried a bag of provisions on his expedition." A girl in Hanfu stands before the tablet, tracing the strokes with her finger, "The horizontal stroke and hook resemble a cloth bag, and the 'stone' below means the grain was packed as tightly as stones." A young man wearing glasses pulls out his phone to look up the pronunciation, clapping his hands when he finds it, "So this is the 'Pan Tuo City' mentioned in the *Book of the Later Han*! The character from the textbook has come to life!"
The cracks in the earthen city wall hold the winds of the Western Regions. On the restored Han Dynasty city wall, the rammed earth patterns resemble the wrinkles of an old man. Fingerprints remain on one of the adobe bricks. "This was rammed using the old method," an old man explained. "Three people worked in a group, chanting as they pounded it, making the earth firm." Looking down from the crenellations, the Tuman River flows slowly, and on the opposite bank, modern houses display colorful floral carpets, red and green, echoing the Han Dynasty banners on the relief wall.
⚔ 36 Stone Statues, Standing in a Thousand-Year-Old Formation
The stone boots on the spirit path are covered in the dust of time. Thirty-six warrior statues are arranged in two rows, each holding a different sword, shield, or crossbow. One statue's boot has a chipped corner; an old man explained, "It was from last year's earthquake; it wasn't repaired. Consider it a scar left on history." A young man in camouflage pants stands beside a statue, comparing his height. "This one must be 1.9 meters tall. Back then, Ban Chao's men were all strong men." As the sunlight slanted in, the shadows of the stone statues were cast on the ground, like a layer of armor covering the sacred path.
The gaze of the Ban Chao statue has been fixed for two thousand years. The nine-meter-high statue of Ban Chao in the center of the square holds a staff (a token of authority for Han Dynasty envoys) pointing westward, a withered leaf still tucked into the folds of his cloak. "Look at his eyes," an old man squinted, "half fierce, half hopeful—fierce towards the Xiongnu, hopeful for Chang'an." A history student held up the *Book of the Later Han* for comparison, "The book says he 'abandoned his pen for the sword,' and look at the statue's hands, the knuckles still bear the calluses from holding a pen."
🖼 A 36-meter-long relief wall, carved with legends of the Western Regions
The most breathtaking feature is the semi-circular relief wall, 36 meters long and 9 meters high, resembling an open stone book. From Ban Chao's mission with 36 men to the alliance of Western Regions states against the Xiongnu, and the reopening of the Silk Road, the chisel marks still reveal the fierce spirit of the past—in one battle map, the Xiongnu cavalry's armor is depicted as rougher than the Han army's, "This was intentional by the craftsmen, to highlight the superiority of our Han army."
A map of the Western Regions in the corner holds secrets of the past and present. At the end of the relief wall is a map of the 36 kingdoms of the Western Regions from the Han Dynasty, with the location of Shule Kingdom (present-day Kashgar) marked in vermilion, and its distance from Chang'an marked next to it: "5,300 li." A girl in sneakers measures it with her hand, "From here to Xi'an, it takes two days to drive now, but back then, it took Ban Chao three months to deliver a message."
🌙 From the ancient city to Pantuo City, half a day to explore the soul of Kashgar
Pantuo City is most charming at dusk. The setting sun dyes the city walls golden-red, the shadows of the stone statues are stretched long, merging with the minarets of the distant ancient city. An old man sat smoking by the beacon tower, smoke rings drifting towards the relief wall. "There aren't many tourists here," he said, "mostly locals taking a stroll after dinner. Look at those kids, playing hide-and-seek around the stone statues."
After exploring, we went straight back to the Old City for roasted pigeon. As the car crossed the Tuman River, we could see the lights of Pantuo City and the night market lights of the Old City blending together. Taking a bite of the crispy-on-the-outside, tender-on-the-inside pigeon, I suddenly understood the preciousness of this free attraction—it wasn't crowded with tour groups, like a quiet old man, guarding its most enduring essence amidst the hustle and bustle of Kashgar: two thousand years ago, someone here, with the courage of 36 men, brought the moonlight of the Central Plains into the sands of the Western Regions.
Practical Guide
· Transportation: A 10-minute taxi ride (about 15 yuan) from Kashgar Old City; navigate to "Pantuo City"; or take bus number 28 to "Tuman River Station," then walk for 5 minutes.
· Cost: Free! Just pronounce the character "橐 (tuó)" correctly (there are pinyin prompts at the entrance, so don't worry about mispronouncing it).
· How to do it: 1. First, take a photo of the "Pan Tuo City" stone tablet (with pinyin to avoid mispronouncing it on social media);
2. Take photos of the relief wall when the midday sun is strong (the hard light highlights the stone texture);
3. In the evening, take a backlit silhouette photo in front of the Ban Chao statue (the silhouette of the cape is incredibly striking).
· Recommended activity: Explore Pan Tuo City in the morning, spend the afternoon in the ancient city (take photos of the century-old teahouse and the opening ceremony), and have stewed meat in the evening (recommended: "Ailizhati Stewed Meat", 25 yuan/serving, tender meat and delicious broth).
· Reminder: The scenic area closes at 7:30 PM, so don't stay out too late; there are free guide signs next to the statues, and you can scan the QR code to hear the stories; respect history, do not climb on the statues or touch the reliefs.
Are you brave enough to try pronouncing the character "橐" correctly? Or, what other historical surprises do you know about Kashgar? See you in the comments! Pantuo City: A Hidden Eastern Han Dynasty Code Next to Kashgar Old City – Read This Character Correctly and You're Free!
A 10-minute taxi ride from Kashgar Old City, a section of earthen city wall suddenly appears beside the Tuman River – the grass on the crenellations is blown askew by the wind, and the character "橐 (tuó)" in the three large characters "盘橐城" (Pantuo City) on the city gate resembles a string of knotted ropes. The gatekeeper, an old man in a blue cloth shirt, smiles and points to the stone tablet: "Nine out of ten tourists can't pronounce it correctly. If you do, you can come in for free."
This is the ruins of the palace of the Shule Kingdom in the Western Regions, and also the "Western Regions Command Headquarters" of Ban Chao of the Eastern Han Dynasty. In 73 AD, he established himself here with 36 brave warriors, and spent 31 years pacifying 55 kingdoms. Today, pushing open the earthen gate, 36 stone statues line the sacred path, and a 36-meter-long relief wall is filled with the clash of swords; even the wind whispers tales of the Han Dynasty. After a tiring stroll through Kashgar Old City, come here to feel the breeze and truly grasp the roots of the Western Regions.
🏯 Recognizing the character "橐" (tuó) is like stepping into the Han Dynasty.
The secret of the character "橐" is carved on the lintel. The gatekeeper taps his pipe on the stone tablet: "This character is pronounced tuó, meaning pocket. Ban Chao used this character when he carried a bag of provisions on his expedition." A girl in Hanfu stands before the tablet, tracing the strokes with her finger, "The horizontal stroke and hook resemble a cloth bag, and the 'stone' below means the grain was packed as tightly as stones." A young man wearing glasses pulls out his phone to look up the pronunciation, clapping his hands when he finds it, "So this is the 'Pan Tuo City' mentioned in the *Book of the Later Han*! The character from the textbook has come to life!"
The cracks in the earthen city wall hold the winds of the Western Regions. On the restored Han Dynasty city wall, the rammed earth patterns resemble the wrinkles of an old man. Fingerprints remain on one of the adobe bricks. "This was rammed using the old method," an old man explained. "Three people worked in a group, chanting as they pounded it, making the earth firm." Looking down from the crenellations, the Tuman River flows slowly, and on the opposite bank, modern houses display colorful floral carpets, red and green, echoing the Han Dynasty banners on the relief wall.
⚔ 36 Stone Statues, Standing in a Thousand-Year-Old Formation
The stone boots on the spirit path are covered in the dust of time. Thirty-six warrior statues are arranged in two rows, each holding a different sword, shield, or crossbow. One statue's boot has a chipped corner; an old man explained, "It was from last year's earthquake; it wasn't repaired. Consider it a scar left on history." A young man in camouflage pants stands beside a statue, comparing his height. "This one must be 1.9 meters tall. Back then, Ban Chao's men were all strong men." As the sunlight slanted in, the shadows of the stone statues were cast on the ground, like a layer of armor covering the sacred path.
The gaze of the Ban Chao statue has been fixed for two thousand years. The nine-meter-high statue of Ban Chao in the center of the square holds a staff (a token of authority for Han Dynasty envoys) pointing westward, a withered leaf still tucked into the folds of his cloak. "Look at his eyes," an old man squinted, "half fierce, half hopeful—fierce towards the Xiongnu, hopeful for Chang'an." A history student held up the *Book of the Later Han* for comparison, "The book says he 'abandoned his pen for the sword,' and look at the statue's hands, the knuckles still bear the calluses from holding a pen."
🖼 A 36-meter-long relief wall, carved with legends of the Western Regions
The most breathtaking feature is the semi-circular relief wall, 36 meters long and 9 meters high, resembling an open stone book. From Ban Chao's mission with 36 men to the alliance of Western Regions states against the Xiongnu, and the reopening of the Silk Road, the chisel marks still reveal the fierce spirit of the past—in one battle map, the Xiongnu cavalry's armor is depicted as rougher than the Han army's, "This was intentional by the craftsmen, to highlight the superiority of our Han army."
A map of the Western Regions in the corner holds secrets of the past and present. At the end of the relief wall is a map of the 36 kingdoms of the Western Regions from the Han Dynasty, with the location of Shule Kingdom (present-day Kashgar) marked in vermilion, and its distance from Chang'an marked next to it: "5,300 li." A girl in sneakers measures it with her hand, "From here to Xi'an, it takes two days to drive now, but back then, it took Ban Chao three months to deliver a message."
🌙 From the ancient city to Pantuo City, half a day to explore the soul of Kashgar
Pantuo City is most charming at dusk. The setting sun dyes the city walls golden-red, the shadows of the stone statues are stretched long, merging with the minarets of the distant ancient city. An old man sat smoking by the beacon tower, smoke rings drifting towards the relief wall. "There aren't many tourists here," he said, "mostly locals taking a stroll after dinner. Look at those kids, playing hide-and-seek around the stone statues."
After exploring, we went straight back to the Old City for roasted pigeon. As the car crossed the Tuman River, we could see the lights of Pantuo City and the night market lights of the Old City blending together. Taking a bite of the crispy-on-the-outside, tender-on-the-inside pigeon, I suddenly understood the preciousness of this free attraction—it wasn't crowded with tour groups, like a quiet old man, guarding its most enduring essence amidst the hustle and bustle of Kashgar: two thousand years ago, someone here, with the courage of 36 men, brought the moonlight of the Central Plains into the sands of the Western Regions.
Practical Guide
· Transportation: A 10-minute taxi ride (about 15 yuan) from Kashgar Old City; navigate to "Pantuo City"; or take bus number 28 to "Tuman River Station," then walk for 5 minutes.
· Cost: Free! Just pronounce the character "橐 (tuó)" correctly (there are pinyin prompts at the entrance, so don't worry about mispronouncing it).
· How to do it: 1. First, take a picture of the "Pan Tuo City" stone tablet (with pinyin to avoid mispronouncing it on social media);
2. Take pictures of the relief wall when the midday sun is strong (the hard light highlights the stone texture);
3. In the evening, take a backlit silhouette photo in front of the Ban Chao statue (the silhouette of the cape is incredibly striking).
· Recommended activity: Explore Pan Tuo City in the morning, spend the afternoon in the ancient city (take pictures of the century-old teahouse and the opening ceremony), and have stewed meat in the evening (recommended: "Ailizhati Stewed Meat", 25 yuan/serving, tender meat and delicious broth).
· Reminder: The scenic area closes at 7:30 PM, so don't stay out too late; there are free guide signs next to the statues, and you can scan the QR code to hear the stories; respect history, do not climb on the statues or touch the reliefs.
Are you brave enough to try pronouncing the character "橐" correctly? Or, what other historical surprises do you know about Kashgar? Let us know in the comments!