The Lingqu Canal in Xing'an is a narrow waterway that connects the Yangtze and Pearl rivers.
The canal isn't wide. In some narrow spots, you can cross it in a few steps, and the water flows gently. Yet, this unassuming canal connected the Yangtze and Pearl River systems over 2,000 years ago. It was excavated during the Qin Dynasty and opened to navigation in 214 BC. The project was overseen by Shi Lu, an imperial inspector under Qin Shi Huang. Setting aside a full day for it when visiting Xing'an is well worth it.
The ingenuity of the Lingqu Canal begins with its water diversion system. When the river reaches the Huazui, it is split into two streams: the southern one enters the South Canal and flows into the Li River, while the northern one enters the North Canal and returns to the Xiang River. There is a local saying: "Three parts into the Li, seven parts into the Xiang." The Huazui extends into the water like a plowshare, flanked by the Big Tianping and Small Tianping, which are two spillway weirs. When water levels are high, excess water flows over the weirs; when levels are low, they retain water to feed the canal, stabilizing the water level. Walking along the canal, you will see Doumen, which are ancient sluice gates. They were used to raise the water level in sections, allowing boats to cross the ridge, and are considered the prototype of modern ship locks. The canal is over 30 kilometers long from end to end, with the South Canal being longer than the North. At its peak, there were 36 such sluice gates. Guo Moruo later wrote about the Lingqu Canal, noting, "Thirty-six sluice gates control the water." Along the canal, you can also find historical sites like the Qin Dike, the Flying Stone, and the Wanli Bridge. Walking this path is more than just a stroll; it's a chance to see how people interacted with water over 2,000 years ago.
The Lingqu Canal was historically known as the Qin Zaoqu, Lingqu, Douhe, or the Xing'an Canal. It is often grouped with the Dujiangyan Irrigation System and the Zheng Guo Canal as one of the three great water conservancy projects of ancient China. In 1988, it was designated a Major Historical and Cultural Site Protected at the National Level. In 2018, it was added to the World Heritage Irrigation Structures list, alongside Dujiangyan, Jiangxi Weir, and the Changqu Canal. The Four Sages Shrine by the canal honors four figures who contributed to its construction and maintenance across dynasties: Shi Lu of the Qin Dynasty, Ma Yuan of the Han Dynasty, and Li Bo and Yu Mengwei of the Tang Dynasty. Nearby is the Tomb of the Three Generals, which commemorates the craftsmen who built the canal. The canal was also maintained by a hereditary Dou Army that guarded the sluice gates and helped raise water levels for boats. This duty was passed down through generations and continued for over 600 years.
The section of the Lingqu Canal that passes through Xing'an County is called Water Street. It is lined with houses and shops, and stone bridges span the canal one after another as it flows through the center of town. You don't need a ticket to enter this section. Visit in the early morning or evening when it's less crowded and the light is soft.
After the canal was completed, the Qin army used it to transport supplies to Lingnan. Later, it served as a civilian waterway, with boats traveling between the Xiang and Gui regions for over 2,000 years. Today, the water in the South and North canals still flows, irrigating the fields along the banks. You might occasionally see locals washing clothes or fishing by the water. You don't need to rush when walking along the canal. The stretch from the Huazui to Water Street—about a mile or two—is perfect for seeing the water, the weirs, and the bridges. A leisurely walk takes over half an hour and is more satisfying than taking a boat.
Xing'an County is right by the canal, making dining and accommodation convenient. In the morning, find a rice noodle shop; Xing'an rice noodles are smooth and delicate, served with fragrant gravy, and are how locals start their day. Around August, Xing'an grapes hit the market—they are very sweet and can be bought along the road. Ginkgo nuts are also a local specialty. There are plenty of hotels and inns in the county with reasonable prices. Walking along Water Street at night when the lights are on is quieter than during the day. An old poem about Xing'an says, "Peach blossoms cover the road like falling red rain, willows line the banks in a green mist," which perfectly describes the scenery by the water in spring.
To get from Guilin to Xing'an, you can take a high-speed train to Xing'an North Station, which takes about 20 minutes. Driving via the expressway takes about an hour, and the roads are easy to navigate. There are different ticket tiers for the scenic area, and boat schedules are adjusted based on passenger flow, so check the opening status for the day before you enter to avoid waiting in vain. The area along the canal has many stone slabs and steps that can be slippery after rain, so wear comfortable, secure shoes. There are many mosquitoes in the summer, so bring repellent. It can be chilly by the water in autumn and winter, so bring a jacket. There are also places like the Lingqu Exhibition Hall in Xing'an County; visiting the exhibition before walking the canal will give you a better understanding of what you're seeing.
Standing at the Huazui and looking at the water, you can see the river split into two streams, one slow and one fast. A boat waits by the sluice gate for the water level to rise, inching forward bit by bit. After more than 2,000 years, this method is still in use.