Heroic Elegy by the Wu River — A Journey to the Bawang Temple in Hexian
Driving southwest from Nanjing, crossing the Yangtze River Bridge in less than an hour, you arrive at Wujiang Town in Hexian, Anhui Province. Southeast of the town lies an unassuming Phoenix Mountain, atop which stands the Bawang Temple—also known as the Western Chu Overlord Spirit Temple—originally built during the Tang Dynasty and rebuilt repeatedly over time. Before visiting, I thought it was just an ordinary small temple, but the moment I stepped through the Han-style gate, I realized: this place does not enshrine imperial achievements, but the soul of a man who refused to bend even in the face of despair.
1. The Han-style Gate and the "Western Chu Overlord Spirit Temple"
The entrance to the scenic area is a Han-style gate made of bluestone, with the three characters "Bawang Temple" carved in stone in the Ming Dynasty by the famous calligrapher Dong Qichang, whose brushstrokes reveal a stubborn refusal to bow. Passing through the gate and ascending the stone steps, you find a pair of Qing Dynasty stone lions crouching before the Lingxing Gate, above which hang six gilded characters inscribed by Han Meilin: "Western Chu Overlord Spirit Temple." There are few visitors; the cicadas’ chirping and the pine waves filter out the noise of the mundane world.
2. The Main Hall — A Reimagining of "Strength to Uplift Mountains"
The main hall is the most striking: a 2.66-meter-tall bronze-like statue of Xiang Yu stands majestically at the center, clad in armor with fierce double pupils, beneath a plaque inscribed "Commanding the Storm." Looking up at him, you truly feel that the phrase "Strength to uplift mountains, spirit to overshadow the world" is not mere rhetoric but a tangible sense of overwhelming power. On both sides of the hall, murals depict scenes from the Records of the Grand Historian: the Battle of Julu with the breaking of the cauldrons and sinking of the boats, the undercurrents at the Hongmen Banquet, the four-sided siege at Gaixia, and the final battle at the Wu River—watching these four acts in sequence feels like a solo review of the rise and fall of the Chu-Han contention. The east annex hall features statues of Xiang Yu, Consort Yu, Fan Zeng, and Long Ju, and tells the folk legend of "lifting the cauldron to marry Consort Yu"; the west annex hall displays maps of the Chu-Han War routes and unearthed Han Dynasty pottery, perfect for a slow, detailed look.
3. The Tomb of Clothes and Cap and the 31 Steps — The Most Heartfelt Design
Behind the main hall lies the most solemn corner of the temple—the Tomb of Clothes and Cap of the Western Chu Overlord.
On both sides of the spirit path stand Ming Dynasty stone figures of men and beasts, shaded by ancient pines. The coffin was destroyed long ago, but locals collected Xiang Yu’s broken armor and blood-stained clothes to bury here. The most ingenious design is the 31 steps leading to the tomb platform—symbolizing Xiang Yu’s brief 31-year life. Counting each step feels like retracing his entire dramatic journey from raising an army at Kuaiji, breaking Qin at Julu, dividing the realm, to his defeat and suicide. The oval-shaped tomb is stacked with bluestone, often blooming with bright red poppies in spring—folk tales say these are the blood of Consort Yu, accompanying him year after year. Behind the tomb is a carved screen inscribed with "Strength to uplift mountains, spirit to overshadow the world," and in front stands a stele reading "Tomb of the Western Chu Overlord’s Clothes and Cap," erected by later generations. At the pavilion with 31 bells, I struck the bronze bell myself; its deep, lingering sound rolled over Phoenix Mountain like a sigh that has lasted two thousand years.
4. The Head-Throwing Stone, Zhu Ma River, and the Relief of the 26 Riders
Walking west along the mountain path outside the temple, you see a giant stone over two meters high—the Head-Throwing Stone—said to be where Xiang Yu threw his severed head to the pursuing soldiers to spare his men further bloodshed. Not far away are the ancient Wujiang Pavilion and Zhu Ma River (now called Sima River), where Xiang Yu refused to cross, saying, "I have no face to see the elders of Jiangdong." The river surface is calm now, but standing on the shore, the phrase plays automatically in your mind: "Even if the brothers of Jiangdong pity me and crown me king, how can I face them?"
On the back mountain is a relief wall of the 26 riders, depicting the scene of Xiang Yu’s last stand with his remaining troops, each section accompanied by original text from the Records of the Grand Historian, Xiang Yu’s biography. Eight thousand young men from Jiangdong were scattered, leaving only these 26 to accompany him to the end—this is the truly worthy ending of the word "loyalty."
5. The Stele Gallery — Xiang Yu Through the Eyes of Literati
The stele gallery is embedded with inscriptions by poets and scholars such as Du Mu, Wang Anshi, Li Qingzhao, and Lu You. The most striking is Li Qingzhao’s line: "In life, be a hero among men; in death, a heroic ghost. To this day, I think of Xiang Yu, unwilling to cross to Jiangdong." Mao Zedong’s calligraphy from "The People’s Liberation Army Occupies Nanjing," reading "We should use our remaining strength to pursue the defeated enemy, not imitate the overlord to seek fame," is also engraved here—placing opposing historical interpretations side by side, revealing the complexity and charm of Xiang Yu’s character: he lost the empire but won the hearts of the people.
6. Epilogue and Tips
By the time I left, it was near dusk, and the setting sun traced golden lines along the eaves of the main hall. Looking back at the Han-style gate, I suddenly felt that the Bawang Temple does not enshrine imperial dreams, but something rare in Chinese culture—a dignity that refuses to compromise, a character that values shame and righteousness, and the tenderness a hero shows to his beloved at the end of his journey. He never crossed to Jiangdong, but the waters of the Wu River remember everything for him.
📍 Practical Information: Phoenix Mountain, Wujiang Town, Hexian, Ma’anshan, Anhui | 8:00 AM–5:00 PM | Tickets about 30 RMB, half price for students | About 1 hour drive from Nanjing, parking available. Traditional temple fair on the third day of the third lunar month; occasional "Farewell My Concubine" performances during Dragon Boat Festival. Hanfu or dark-colored dresses make for great photos, especially in spring and autumn.