0 yuan to see 300m2 Ming Dynasty murals! There is a "mini royal palace" hidden on the edge of Mount Wutai.
Princess Village: Free "Mural Museum" hidden at the northern foot of Mount Wutai, 300m2 Ming Dynasty Danqing Club "tells stories"
As soon as the car turned into the mountain col of Fanzhi County, we saw a patch of red walls and gray tiles emerging from the green trees. The stone tablet at the entrance of the village is engraved with the words "Princess Village". The old man guarding the monument smiled with a cigarette in his mouth: "Go in, it doesn't cost money!" It was a 20-minute drive from the county town of Fanzhi to get here, without even charging for parking, but broke into a 400 0m2 of the Ming Dynasty temple - the mountain gate of Princess Temple is ajar, the moment you push the door open, the smell of incense mixed with the breath of old wood floods over, on the wall of the Great Hall, more than 480 gods are "looking" out of the painting.
"This mural is even more wild than the one in Yongle Palace." The monks in the temple pointed to the east wall. The patterns on the armor of the protector's armor with powdered powder and gold were as delicate as if they were made of real iron. According to legend, Princess Honesty of the Northern Wei Dynasty escaped from her marriage to this point. The mountain people built a grass hut for her to stay. Later, the grass hut was turned into a temple, and her shadow was still hidden in the murals - a woman in plain clothes stood among the gods, her eyebrows were so gentle that she didn't look like a fairy. You can enjoy this "art feast" for 3 hours by car from Taiyuan. It's so cheap that you want to post a couplet on the mountain gate: "You can see through three hundred years without spending a penny."
🖌 Murals speak, in pigment
The wrinkles of the gods hide the pigments of the Ming Dynasty. Looking closely at the "water and land painting" on the west wall, the green face of a certain ghost is toned with copper green, hundreds of years have passed, and it is so dark; and the ribbon of the fairy is made of cinnabar, so red that it seems to have just been painted on. The monk said these were “the stubbornness of mineral pigments” and that “when the painters lived here for three years, the ore came down from the back of Mount Wutai.” A girl wearing glasses held up a magnifying glass to see, and suddenly pointed somewhere: “This line will turn!” Sure enough, the curve of a certain goddess’s skirt just avoided a crack in the wall, “The painter is kissing the wall as if it were a living thing.”
The "Princess Shadow" in the mural is hidden in the pile of gods. In the corner of the east wall was a woman in a coarse cloth dress, not wearing a crown or holding a magic weapon, but standing among the immortals. The monk said that this was Princess Integrity. "When she was spinning thread in the hut, the painter painted her as a 'human fairy'". Girls always like to stand here and take pictures. In plain clothes, she looks like she came out of a painting. "You look at her eyes, not like a princess who ran away from marriage, but like a master guarding a world.
🏯 The ancient temple will live, in the bricks and tiles
The secret of three entrances into the courtyard, hidden in the threshold. The threshold for the first entrance is the shortest, "for pilgrims and animals to walk"; the threshold for the second entrance is half a foot higher, "the monks of those days had to cross to enter"; The young man in Hanfu tried to cross the high threshold, his robe was hooked to the left corner, and the monk smiled and handed over the bamboo pole: "Slow down, this threshold is more real than the old people in the village."
The window of the Tibetan Sutra Pavilion frames the whole mountain. The afternoon sun slanted into the porch, the scrolls on the bookshelves glowed yellow, and a certain window just framed the peaks at the northern foot of Mount Wutai into a painting. The monk said that the former abbot, always copying scriptures by the window, "looked up at the mountains and wrote with his head down. The days were as slow as clouds in a mural." An old couple sat on a stone bench under the window, the old lady pointed into the distance: "Do you look at that mountain shape, does it look like the lying Buddha in the mural?" The old man squinted for half a day, "Like! We here for 0 yuan tickets, we see double the view."
🌾Villages keep track of events, in fireworks
The pattern of the stone grinding disc, milled over six hundred years. The old stone mill at the head of the village can still turn, the grooves on the mill are polished by grains, and villager Aunt Li is pushing the mill to grind millet. "This mill is older than the mural in the temple. The princess may have used it to grind noodles." In the old well next to the mill, the rope on the wheel is wrapped in pulp. When Aunt Lee fetches water, the barrel rope "creaks". "This sound is the same as what my grandmother heard when she was young."
The drum beat of the temple shattered the silence. During the ceremony on the eighth day of the third lunar month, the villagers carried the statues in a parade, and the sound of gongs and drums "started" all the gods in the mural. Old people in blue cloth shirts beat brass, children ran with paper flags, and monks stood at the temple gate laughing, "The princess did not see this formation back then, but she left us with a lively atmosphere." There is a small stall selling oil cakes, 5 cents each, when you bite open the sugar juice splashed on your hands, hot to inhale, but sweet enough to make people want to come again.
📍The rule of coming here is to bring a mind
Don't turn on the flash, the pigment is afraid of "scaring". A tourist wanted to take a picture of the details of the mural.
Don't rush for time, let your footsteps follow the incense. After slowly strolling through the third courtyard, I sat under the old locust tree and listened to the monks tell the story in the mural. Don't rush if you didn't hear a certain paragraph clearly. The mountain wind will send the second half of the sentence over. One couple, who stayed from morning to evening, said the shadows on the mural would move as the setting sun shone into the main hall, "as if the gods were handing over their shifts."
As we left, the setting sun stretched the shadow of the monastery long. The monk stood at the gate of the mountain to see us off, the broom in his hand was sweeping the fallen leaves. "Autumn is the best, the red leaves of Mount Wutai can reflect half of the wall red." The car drove far away, the princess village in the rearview mirror was still immersed in the twilight, and I suddenly understood the meaning of this "free" - the real baby, never used to sell money, just like the integrity princess in the mural, who has lived the peaceful days into a legend, is the most moving.
Are you willing to rush to such a small and ancient village for a mural? Or, which “art eggs” have you seen hidden in the countryside? Let's talk in the comment section
Practical Guide
· Transportation: 3 hours by car in Taiyuan (via Erguang Expressway to Fanzhi exit, turn to Sand Five Line, navigate "Princess Village", free parking at the entrance of the village);
· Cost: RMB 0 for the whole journey (the temple can voluntarily donate incense oil money, no compulsory consumption).
· Accommodation: It is recommended to stay in Fancheng County Town (20 minutes drive), hotel 80-150 yuan / night (recommended "Fancheng Guesthouse", downstairs lamb soup restaurant 10 yuan / bowl, with oil cakes excellent).
· Must-do list 1. Close-up of the mural: In the Grand Hall, the camera focuses on the side of the "Princess Integrity" in the mural, sunlight leaks in from the window and illuminates the gold thread on her clothes, highlighting the trance of "people wandering in the painting".
2. Light and shadow of the ancient temple: In the afternoon, under the window of the Tibetan sutra porch, photograph the light spots cast by sunlight on the sutra scroll through the pane, the characters reach out and touch the light spots, the background is the outline of Mount Wutai outside the window.
3. Village fireworks: Next to the stone mill at the entrance of the village, film the moment when Aunt Li pushes the mill and grinds millet.
· Courteous reminder: spring and autumn best (April-May, September-October), summer rainy road slippery; murals afraid of light, photography must turn off the flash; temple prohibited noise, wear comfortable cloth shoes (walking three entrances about 10,000 steps);
Princess Village: Free "Mural Museum" hidden at the northern foot of Mount Wutai, 300m2 Ming Dynasty Danqing Club "tells stories"
As soon as the car turned into the mountain col of Fanzhi County, we saw a patch of red walls and gray tiles emerging from the green trees. The stone tablet at the entrance of the village is engraved with the words "Princess Village". The old man guarding the monument smiled with a cigarette in his mouth: "Go in, it doesn't cost money!" It was a 20-minute drive from the county town of Fanzhi to get here, without even charging for parking, but broke into a 400 0m2 of the Ming Dynasty temple - the mountain gate of Princess Temple is ajar, the moment you push the door open, the smell of incense mixed with the breath of old wood floods over, on the wall of the Great Hall, more than 480 gods are "looking" out of the painting.
"This mural is even more wild than the one in Yongle Palace." The monks in the temple pointed to the east wall. The patterns on the armor of the protector's armor with powdered powder and gold were as delicate as if they were made of real iron. According to legend, Princess Honesty of the Northern Wei Dynasty escaped from her marriage to this point. The mountain people built a grass hut for her to stay. Later, the grass hut was turned into a temple, and her shadow was still hidden in the murals - a woman in plain clothes stood among the gods, her eyebrows were so gentle that she didn't look like a fairy. You can enjoy this "art feast" for 3 hours by car from Taiyuan. It's so cheap that you want to post a couplet on the mountain gate: "You can see through three hundred years without spending a penny."
🖌 Murals speak, in pigment
The wrinkles of the gods hide the pigments of the Ming Dynasty. Looking closely at the "water and land painting" on the west wall, the green face of a certain ghost is toned with copper green, hundreds of years have passed, and it is so dark; and the ribbon of the fairy is made of cinnabar, so red that it seems to have just been painted on. The monk said these were “the stubbornness of mineral pigments” and that “when the painters lived here for three years, the ore came down from the back of Mount Wutai.” A girl wearing glasses held up a magnifying glass to see, and suddenly pointed somewhere: “This line will turn!” Sure enough, the curve of a certain goddess’s skirt just avoided a crack in the wall, “The painter is kissing the wall as if it were a living thing.”
The "Princess Shadow" in the mural is hidden in the pile of gods. In the corner of the east wall was a woman in a coarse cloth dress, not wearing a crown or holding a magic weapon, but standing among the immortals. The monk said that this was Princess Integrity. "When she was spinning thread in the hut, the painter painted her as a 'human fairy'". Girls always like to stand here and take pictures. In plain clothes, she looks like she came out of a painting. "You look at her eyes, not like a princess who ran away from marriage, but like a master guarding a world.
🏯 The ancient temple will live, in the bricks and tiles
The secret of three entrances into the courtyard, hidden in the threshold. The threshold for the first entrance is the shortest, "for pilgrims and animals to walk"; the threshold for the second entrance is half a foot higher, "the monks of those days had to cross to enter"; The young man in Hanfu tried to cross the high threshold, his robe was hooked to the left corner, and the monk smiled and handed over the bamboo pole: "Slow down, this threshold is more real than the old people in the village."
The window of the Tibetan Sutra Pavilion frames the whole mountain. The afternoon sun slanted into the porch, the scrolls on the bookshelves glowed yellow, and a certain window just framed the peaks at the northern foot of Mount Wutai into a painting. The monk said that the former abbot, always copying scriptures by the window, "looked up at the mountains and wrote with his head down. The days were as slow as clouds in a mural." An old couple sat on a stone bench under the window, the old lady pointed into the distance: "Do you look at that mountain shape, does it look like the lying Buddha in the mural?" The old man squinted for half a day, "Like! We here for 0 yuan tickets, we see double the view."
🌾Villages keep track of events, in fireworks
The pattern of the stone grinding disc, milled over six hundred years. The old stone mill at the head of the village can still turn, the grooves on the mill are polished by grains, and villager Aunt Li is pushing the mill to grind millet. "This mill is older than the mural in the temple. The princess may have used it to grind noodles." In the old well next to the mill, the rope on the wheel is wrapped in pulp. When Aunt Lee fetches water, the barrel rope "creaks". "This sound is the same as what my grandmother heard when she was young."
The drum beat of the temple shattered the silence. During the ceremony on the eighth day of the third lunar month, the villagers carried the statues in a parade, and the sound of gongs and drums "started" all the gods in the mural. Old people in blue cloth shirts beat brass, children ran with paper flags, and monks stood at the temple gate laughing, "The princess did not see this formation back then, but she left us with a lively atmosphere." There is a small stall selling oil cakes, 5 cents each, when you bite open the sugar juice splashed on your hands, hot to inhale, but sweet enough to make people want to come again.
📍 The rule of coming here is to bring a mind
Don't turn on the flash, the pigment is afraid of "scaring". A tourist wanted to take a picture of the details of the mural.
Don't rush for time, let your footsteps follow the incense. After slowly strolling through the third courtyard, I sat under the old locust tree and listened to the monks tell the story in the mural. Don't rush if you didn't hear a certain paragraph clearly. The mountain wind will send the second half of the sentence over. One couple, who stayed from morning to evening, said the shadows on the mural would move as the setting sun shone into the main hall, "as if the gods were handing over their shifts."
As we left, the setting sun stretched the shadow of the monastery long. The monk stood at the gate of the mountain to see us off, the broom in his hand was sweeping the fallen leaves. "Autumn is the best, the red leaves of Mount Wutai can reflect half of the wall red." The car drove far away, the princess village in the rearview mirror was still immersed in the twilight, and I suddenly understood the meaning of this "free" - the real baby, never used to sell money, just like the integrity princess in the mural, who has lived the peaceful days into a legend, is the most moving.
Are you willing to rush to such a small and ancient village for a mural? Or, which “art eggs” have you seen hidden in the countryside? Let's talk in the comment section
Practical Guide
· Transportation: 3 hours by car in Taiyuan (via Erguang Expressway to Fanzhi exit, turn to Sand Five Line, navigate "Princess Village", free parking at the entrance of the village);
· Cost: RMB 0 for the whole journey (the temple can voluntarily donate incense oil money, no compulsory consumption).
· Accommodation: It is recommended to stay in Fancheng County Town (20 minutes drive), hotel 80-150 yuan / night (recommended "Fancheng Guesthouse", downstairs lamb soup restaurant 10 yuan / bowl, with oil cakes excellent).
· Must-do list 1. Close-up of the mural: In the Grand Hall, the camera focuses on the side of the "Princess Integrity" in the mural, sunlight leaks in from the window and illuminates the gold thread on her clothes, highlighting the trance of "people wandering in the painting".
2. Light and shadow of the ancient temple: In the afternoon, under the window of the Tibetan sutra porch, photograph the light spots cast by sunlight on the sutra scroll through the pane, the characters reach out and touch the light spots, the background is the outline of Mount Wutai outside the window.
3. Village fireworks: Next to the stone mill at the entrance of the village, film the moment when Aunt Li pushes the mill and grinds millet.
- Courteous reminder: spring and autumn best (April-May, September-October), summer rainy road slippery; murals afraid of light, photography must turn off the flash; temple prohibited noise, wear comfortable cloth shoes (walking three entrances about 10,000 steps);