"Laozi is the greatest under heaven" - Qingyuan Mountain, the premier mountain in Penglai, Fujian (Quanzhou)
I. Random Thoughts on Qingyuan Mountain
Strolling through Qingyuan Mountain, the first thing that greets visitors is the renowned Laozi Rock. This massive natural granite block, after being slightly sculpted by craftsmen, has been transformed into a serene statue of Laozi sitting cross-legged on the ground. For thousands of years, with his deep, wise eyes slightly narrowed, he has compassionately overlooked the eastward-flowing Jinjiang River, witnessing the prosperity and vicissitudes of this "World Religious Museum." Not far from Laozi Rock, the stupa containing the relics of Master Hongyi stands quietly. The imprints of Taoism and Buddhism coexist harmoniously here, perfectly embodying the inclusive spirit of the people of Quanzhou.
Qingyuan Mountain is named after its springs, and the clear springs in the mountains are its vibrant soul. Climbing the winding stone steps, one is greeted by the murmuring of flowing water and the crisp chirping of birds. Visiting the famous "Tiger Milk Spring," one can watch the spring water gurgle from the cracks in the rocks, flowing into a clear pool, and almost feel the warmth of the legendary mother tiger nursing her cubs. Climbing to Tianhu Lake reveals another dreamlike scene. Amidst the swirling mist, the lake's surface resembles a giant mirror, reflecting the verdant pines and drifting white clouds. Dewdrops occasionally fall from the pine needles, creating ripples on the water.
Qingyuan Mountain is not only a gift of nature but also a tapestry of human culture. The mountain is dotted with cliff carvings left by scholars and poets throughout history, from Mi Fu's "The First Mountain" in the Northern Song Dynasty to Master Hongyi's "A Mixture of Sorrow and Joy." These more than five hundred carvings are like history books etched in stone, telling tales of a thousand years of elegance. If you find a teahouse halfway up the mountain, brew a cup of Anxi Tieguanyin tea, watch the tea leaves unfurl in the boiling water, savor the fragrant tea, and look down at the myriad lights of Quanzhou city below and the distant gazes of the East and West Pagodas, the troubles of the world will vanish with the mountain breeze.
1. Lao Jun Rock Mountain Gate The L-shaped, two-tiered platform is a variation of the Yin-Yang symbol and the Eight Trigrams. The natural stone in front is engraved with the eight seal characters "Green Ox Goes West, Purple Qi Comes East," and the stone gate, adorned with gnarled roots as window decorations, exudes a wild mountain atmosphere, perfectly embodying Lao Tzu's philosophy of "revering nature," giving one a sense of entering a transcendent paradise. Following this quiet, shaded stone path, banyan trees stand on both sides. Their dense, long roots resemble Lao Tzu's long beard, signifying his philosophy of "eternal life and boundless vitality."
2. The Laozi Statue is a unique artistic treasure among Chinese Taoist stone carvings. The *Quanzhou Prefecture Annals* records, "The stone statue was formed naturally, and those with a penchant for craftsmanship added a touch of carving." This indicates that it is a natural boulder shaped like an old man, and that skilled folk craftsmen sculpted it into a seated statue of Laozi, the famous philosopher, thinker, and founder of Taoism during the Spring and Autumn Period.
The Laozi Statue was originally surrounded by a grand Taoist temple, with magnificent Taoist buildings such as the Zhenjun Hall and the Beidou Hall. Later, the temple was destroyed by fire, leaving the Laozi Rock exposed to the elements, blending seamlessly with nature (perhaps the temple should be rebuilt for Laozi! Is it alright to leave him exposed to the rain every day?). Its survival is sufficient proof that Taoist culture was highly developed and flourishing in the ancient city of Quanzhou, known as the "World Religious Museum," during the Song Dynasty.
The Laozi statue is 5.63 meters high, 6.85 meters thick, and 8.01 meters wide, with a floor area of 55 square meters. Because it is the largest, most exquisitely crafted, and oldest existing Taoist stone sculpture in China, it is jokingly referred to by historians and cultural figures as "Laozi is the best under heaven," a title that is quite fitting.
3. Tiger Milk Spring
Located on a rocky slope above Qingyuan Tianhu Lake. According to the *Huanyu Ji*, "The *Book of Han*, in the biography of Zhu Maichen, refers to Quanshan, which was protected by the King of Dongyue." Ye Tinggui, a Fujianese scholar from the early Southern Song Dynasty, recorded in his *Hailu Suishi*: "Quanshan is the main mountain of Quanzhou, named for the spring with a hole in it."
Qingyuan Mountain is named Quanshan because of Quanshan, and Quanzhou is named after Quanshan. Beside Tiger Milk Spring is a stone inscription reading "Kongquan" (Spring with Hole). The spring is surrounded by stone, the upper stone like a shell, the lower stone like a whetstone, with a hole in the middle through which the spring water flows into a square stone hole. Above are inscriptions by Lü Daoren ("Tiger Milk") and Zhu Xi ("Living Water Source"). Tiger Milk Spring never dries up; visitors can hear a gurgling sound emanating from beneath the rocks if they press their ears against them.
4. Thousand-Hand Rock (also known as Guanyin Temple) is named after the Guanyin statue it houses. Located on the left peak of Qingyuan Mountain, the temple's red walls and white tiles give it a refreshing appearance. At the back of the main hall is a Song Dynasty stone sculpture of Shakyamuni, the founder of Buddhism. The sculpture is exquisitely crafted and lifelike, representing one of the finest examples of Song Dynasty stone carving art in Qingyuan Mountain.
5. Amitabha Rock (Mituo Rock) After passing Thousand-Hand Rock, ascend the ancient path and pass Zhenyi Pavilion to reach the entrance of Amitabha Rock. The gateposts are inscribed with a couplet written by the Ming Dynasty calligrapher Zhang Ruitu: "Whenever peace and tranquility are celebrated, one can gaze afar; when fertile fields are observed, one can pause to rest." This suggests that it is a good place to climb high and enjoy the view, perhaps with a cup of wine in the breeze.
Here, towering boulders and ancient trees reach for the sky. Nearby, the "Heavenly Companions" are two different tree species tightly embracing each other: a Chinese tallow tree (Chionanthus chinensis) and a banyan tree (Ficus microcarpa). Their roots intertwine, their trunks embrace, and their branches intertwine, as if glued together, enduring for over three hundred years, like a pair of faithful lovers.
6. The Three Buddhas The three Buddhas sit side-by-side in the lotus position on inverted lotus pedestals. The main statue is approximately 2.5 meters tall, with the two on either side slightly shorter. The statues are well-preserved and all are in the Tubo style: the Buddhas have spiral-shaped hair topped with jewels. Their faces are wide at the top and narrow at the bottom, with ears reaching their shoulders, broad shoulders and narrow waists. They all wear robes exposing the right shoulder, with a corner draped over the left. The folds of the robes are depicted in relief, and despite the passage of time, the lines remain clearly defined. Each statue has a circular halo. The central Shakyamuni Buddha, representing the modern Buddha and presiding over the present world, is depicted in the earth-touching mudra, one hand touching the ground and the other upward. The left Buddha is Bhaisajyaguru, the Buddha of the past, presiding over the past world. He also has one hand downward and one upward, but his left hand holds a begging bowl. The right Buddha is Amitabha, the Buddha of the future, depicted in the meditation mudra, with both hands folded and placed on his abdomen.
The Three Buddhas (Buddhas of the Three Times) are the main Buddha images enshrined in Tibetan Buddhist temples since the 13th century. The *Yuan Dynasty Painting and Sculpture Records* states that in Tibetan-style temples in Dadu (Beijing) during the Yuan Dynasty, the Three Buddhas were enshrined in the "main hall," representing the principal deities worshipped during that period. This particular Three Buddha stone carving has been identified as the earliest, best-preserved, and southeasternmost Sanskrit Three Buddha statue discovered in China. A stone inscription 20 meters to the south records that the Three Buddhas were carved in 1292, more than 700 years ago.
7. Qingyuan Cave
Located atop Qingyuan Mountain, it is the foremost of the thirty-six caves of Qingyuan Mountain, known as the "First Cave Heaven" by contemporaries. Upon entering the mountain gate and ascending the stone steps, a stele commemorating the achievements of the 36th year of the Wanli reign (1617) stands on the left, inscribed: "The phrase 'Spring Mountain' is recorded in the Book of Han, hence the name Qingyuan. Guests from all directions, and the local gentry and commoners, admire this scenic spot and visit it in an endless stream." Qingyuan Cave was first built during the Shaoxing reign of the Southern Song Dynasty, and includes buildings such as the Guankong Tower, the Buddha Hall, and the Pei Xian Shrine. Legend has it that during the Shaoxing reign of the Southern Song Dynasty, a Taoist priest named Pei, chasing a giant python that was harming living beings, came to this place. Seeing the python escape into the cave, he covered it with a stone, sat down at the cave entrance, and died, preventing the python from emerging to cause further harm. Therefore, this cave is also known as "Pei Xian Cave."
8. Relic Pagoda
In 1952, the "Pagoda of Master Hongyi" was built on the west side of Amitabha Rock on Qingyuan Mountain, enshrining the Master's relics. The stone pagoda is constructed from Quanzhou white granite. Through meticulous carving, the entire pagoda exhibits the architectural characteristics of southern Fujian's imitation wood-and-stone structures. The interior ceiling features a spiderweb-like coffered ceiling with layered, overlapping wooden brackets, enhancing the sense of space. On the front wall, an inlaid diabase carving of the "Portrait of Lawyer Hongyi," a "tearful ink painting" created by Mr. Feng Zikai during a time of grief, is displayed.
9. Ruixiang Rock Chamber Standing atop Tianzhu Peak, the Ruixiang Rock Chamber was built in the second year of the Yuan You era of the Song Dynasty. Initially a wooden structure, it was rebuilt as a stone structure imitating wood in the nineteenth year of the Chenghua era of the Ming Dynasty. Inside the chamber is a Song Dynasty stone sculpture of Sakyamuni Buddha, carved from the natural cliff face. It is 4.62 meters high and 2 meters wide, depicting a standing Buddha. The statue is solemn, dignified, and compassionate, with exquisite craftsmanship, making it an important material for the study of ancient Chinese architecture and Buddhist stone carving art.
To the left of the stone chamber is a stone inscription, "Record of the Reconstruction of Ruixiang Rock," written by Li Han, the Ming Dynasty General and Commander of Quanzhou Guard. It recounts the construction and reconstruction of the Ruixiang Rock during the Song and Ming Dynasties.
Passing through the cliff cave to the left of the stone chamber, the view suddenly opens up, revealing three giant rocks resembling three large pythons stretching their heads out of the cave, hence the name "Three Pythons Emerging from the Cave." In ancient times, a pavilion called "Wangzhou Pavilion" was built on the platform on the cliff, offering a panoramic view of the ancient city.
III. Quick Tips
1. Admission is 70 yuan; free for seniors over 70. Half price for those aged 60-70.
2. Fun fact: Free admission before 7:00 AM and after 6:00 PM!
3. Qingyuan Mountain is very large; at least a full day is needed to see everything.
Recommended Route:
1. Main Gate → Lao Jun Rock → Hongyi Relic Pagoda → Tea at Tianhu Lake → Panoramic View from Nantai Rock → Walk down the mountain.
2. Lao Jun Rock → Wisdom Steps → Thousand-Hand Rock → Amitabha Rock → Heavenly Lake → South Terrace Rock → Descend the mountain.
4. Public transportation to Qingyuan Mountain is very convenient, with many buses going directly there. A taxi ride from Quanzhou Old Town takes about 20 minutes.
5. It's recommended to bring rain gear, as Quanzhou's weather is somewhat unpredictable.
I. Random Thoughts on Qingyuan Mountain
Strolling through Qingyuan Mountain, the first thing that greets visitors is the renowned Lao Jun Rock. This huge natural granite block, after being slightly sculpted by craftsmen, has been transformed into a seated, serene statue of Lao Jun. For thousands of years, with his deep, wise eyes slightly narrowed, he has compassionately overlooked the eastward-flowing Jinjiang River, witnessing the prosperity and vicissitudes of this "World Religious Museum." Not far from Lao Jun Rock, the stupa containing the relics of Master Hongyi also stands quietly. Here, the imprints of Taoism and Buddhism coexist harmoniously, perfectly embodying the inclusive spirit of the people of Quanzhou.
Qingyuan Mountain is named after its springs, which are its vibrant soul. Climbing the winding stone paths, you'll hear the murmuring of flowing water and the clear chirping of birds. Visit the famous "Tiger Milk Spring," where water gushes from the cracks in the rocks, flowing into a clear pool, and you can almost feel the warmth of the legend of a mother tiger nursing her cubs. Reaching Tianhu Lake reveals another dreamlike scene. Amidst the swirling mist, the lake's surface resembles a giant mirror, reflecting the verdant pines and drifting white clouds. Dewdrops occasionally fall from the pine needles, creating ripples on the water.
Qingyuan Mountain is not only a gift of nature but also a tapestry of human culture. The mountains are dotted with cliff carvings left by literati throughout history, from Mi Fu's "The First Mountain" in the Northern Song Dynasty to Master Hongyi's "A Mixture of Sorrow and Joy." These more than five hundred carvings are like history books etched in stone, telling tales of a thousand years of elegance. If you find a teahouse halfway up the mountain, brew a cup of Anxi Tieguanyin tea, watch the tea leaves unfurl in the boiling water, savor the fragrant tea, and look down at the myriad lights of Quanzhou city below and the distant gazes of the East and West Pagodas, the troubles of the world will vanish with the mountain breeze.
1. Lao Jun Rock Mountain Gate: The L-shaped, two-tiered platform is a variation of the Yin-Yang symbol and the Eight Trigrams. The natural stone directly in front is engraved with the eight seal characters "青牛西去,紫气东来" (Green Ox Goes West, Purple Qi Comes East). The stone gate, adorned with gnarled roots as window decorations, exudes a rustic charm, perfectly embodying Lao Tzu's philosophy of "revering nature," giving one a sense of entering a transcendent paradise. Following this quiet, shaded stone path, banyan trees stand on both sides. Their dense, long roots resemble Lao Tzu's long beard, signifying his philosophy of "eternal life and boundless vitality."
2. Lao Tzu Statue: A unique artistic treasure among Chinese Taoist stone carvings. The *Quanzhou Prefecture Gazetteer* records: "The stone statue was formed naturally, and a craftsman added some minor carving." This indicates that it is a natural boulder resembling an old man, and that skilled folk artisans sculpted it into a seated statue of Laozi, the famous philosopher, thinker, and founder of Taoism during the Spring and Autumn Period.
The Laozi statue was originally surrounded by a grand Taoist temple, with magnificent Taoist buildings such as the Zhenjun Hall and the Beidou Hall. Later, the temple was burned down, and the Laozi rock stood exposed to the elements, blending seamlessly with nature (it would be good to rebuild the temple for Laozi! Is it alright to leave him exposed to the rain every day?). Its survival is sufficient proof that Taoist culture was highly developed and flourishing in the ancient city of Quanzhou, known as the "World Religious Museum," during the Song Dynasty.
The Laozi stone statue is 5.63 meters high, 6.85 meters thick, and 8.01 meters wide, with a floor area of 55 square meters. Because it is the largest, most exquisitely crafted, and oldest existing Taoist stone sculpture in China, it is jokingly referred to by historians and cultural figures as "Laozi is the best under heaven," a title that is quite fitting.
3. Tiger Milk Spring
Located on a rocky slope above Qingyuan Tianhu Lake. According to the *Huanyu Ji*, "The *Book of Han*, in the biography of Zhu Maichen, refers to Quanshan, which was protected by the King of Dongyue." Ye Tinggui, a Fujianese scholar from the early Southern Song Dynasty, recorded in his *Hailu Suishi*: "Quanshan is the main mountain of Quanzhou, named for the spring with a hole in it."
Qingyuan Mountain is named Quanshan because of Quanshan, and Quanzhou is named after Quanshan. Beside Tiger Milk Spring is a stone inscription reading "Kongquan" (Spring with Hole). The spring is surrounded by stone, the upper stone like a shell, the lower stone like a whetstone, with a hole in the middle through which the spring water flows into a square stone hole. Above are inscriptions by Lü Daoren ("Tiger Milk") and Zhu Xi ("Living Water Source"). Tiger Milk Spring never dries up; visitors can hear a gurgling sound emanating from beneath the rocks if they press their ears against them.
4. Thousand-Hand Rock (also known as Guanyin Temple) is named after the Guanyin statue it houses. Located on the left peak of Qingyuan Mountain, the temple's red walls and white tiles give it a refreshing appearance. At the back of the main hall is a Song Dynasty stone sculpture of Shakyamuni, the founder of Buddhism. The sculpture is exquisitely crafted and lifelike, representing one of the finest examples of Song Dynasty stone carving art in Qingyuan Mountain.
5. Amitabha Rock (Mituo Rock) After passing Thousand-Hand Rock, ascend the ancient path and pass Zhenyi Pavilion to reach the entrance of Amitabha Rock. The gateposts are inscribed with a couplet written by the Ming Dynasty calligrapher Zhang Ruitu: "Whenever peace and tranquility are celebrated, one can gaze afar; when fertile fields are observed, one can pause to rest." This suggests that it is a good place to climb high and enjoy the view, perhaps with a cup of wine in the breeze.
Here, towering boulders and ancient trees reach for the sky. Nearby, the "Heavenly Companions" are two different tree species tightly embracing each other: a Chinese tallow tree (Chionanthus chinensis) and a banyan tree (Ficus microcarpa). Their roots intertwine, their trunks embrace, and their branches intertwine, as if glued together, enduring for over three hundred years, like a pair of faithful lovers.
6. The Three Buddhas The three Buddhas sit side-by-side in the lotus position on inverted lotus pedestals. The main statue is approximately 2.5 meters tall, with the two on either side slightly shorter. The statues are well-preserved and all are in the Tubo style: the Buddhas have spiral-shaped hair topped with jewels. Their faces are wide at the top and narrow at the bottom, with ears reaching their shoulders, broad shoulders and narrow waists. They all wear robes exposing the right shoulder, with a corner draped over the left. The folds of the robes are depicted in relief, and despite the passage of time, the lines remain clearly defined. Each statue has a circular halo. The central Shakyamuni Buddha, representing the modern Buddha and presiding over the present world, is depicted in the earth-touching mudra, one hand touching the ground and the other upward. The left Buddha is Bhaisajyaguru, the Buddha of the past, presiding over the past world. He also has one hand downward and one upward, but his left hand holds a begging bowl. The right Buddha is Amitabha, the Buddha of the future, depicted in the meditation mudra, with both hands folded and placed on his abdomen.
The Three Buddhas (Buddhas of the Three Times) are the main Buddha images enshrined in Tibetan Buddhist temples since the 13th century. The *Yuan Dynasty Painting and Sculpture Records* states that in Tibetan-style temples in Dadu (Beijing) during the Yuan Dynasty, the Three Buddhas were enshrined in the "main hall," representing the principal deities worshipped during that period. This particular Three Buddha stone carving has been identified as the earliest, best-preserved, and southeasternmost Sanskrit Three Buddha statue discovered in China. A stone inscription 20 meters to the south records that the Three Buddhas were carved in 1292, more than 700 years ago.
7. Qingyuan Cave
Located atop Qingyuan Mountain, it is the foremost of the thirty-six caves of Qingyuan Mountain, known as the "First Cave Heaven" by contemporaries. Upon entering the mountain gate and ascending the stone steps, a stele commemorating the achievements of the 36th year of the Wanli reign (1617) stands on the left, inscribed: "The phrase 'Spring Mountain' is recorded in the Book of Han, hence the name Qingyuan. Guests from all directions, and the local gentry and commoners, admire this scenic spot and visit it in an endless stream." Qingyuan Cave was first built during the Shaoxing reign of the Southern Song Dynasty, and includes buildings such as the Guankong Tower, the Buddha Hall, and the Pei Xian Shrine. Legend has it that during the Shaoxing reign of the Southern Song Dynasty, a Taoist priest named Pei, chasing a giant python that was harming living beings, came to this place. Seeing the python escape into the cave, he covered it with a stone, sat down at the cave entrance, and died, preventing the python from emerging to cause further harm. Therefore, this cave is also known as "Pei Xian Cave."
8. Relic Pagoda
In 1952, the "Pagoda of Master Hongyi" was built on the west side of Amitabha Rock on Qingyuan Mountain, enshrining the Master's relics. The stone pagoda is constructed from Quanzhou white granite. Through meticulous carving, the entire pagoda exhibits the architectural characteristics of southern Fujian's imitation wood-and-stone structures. The interior ceiling features a spiderweb-like coffered ceiling with layered, overlapping wooden brackets, enhancing the sense of space. On the front wall, an inlaid diabase carving of the "Portrait of Lawyer Hongyi," a "tearful ink painting" created by Mr. Feng Zikai during a time of grief, is displayed.
9. Ruixiang Rock Chamber Standing atop Tianzhu Peak, the Ruixiang Rock Chamber was built in the second year of the Yuan You era of the Song Dynasty. Initially a wooden structure, it was rebuilt as a stone structure imitating wood in the nineteenth year of the Chenghua era of the Ming Dynasty. Inside the chamber is a Song Dynasty stone sculpture of Sakyamuni Buddha, carved from the natural cliff face. It is 4.62 meters high and 2 meters wide, depicting a standing Buddha. The statue is solemn, dignified, and compassionate, with exquisite craftsmanship, making it an important material for the study of ancient Chinese architecture and Buddhist stone carving art.
To the left of the stone chamber is a stone inscription, "Record of the Reconstruction of Ruixiang Rock," written by Li Han, the Ming Dynasty General and Commander of Quanzhou Guard. It recounts the construction and reconstruction of the Ruixiang Rock during the Song and Ming Dynasties.
Passing through the cliff cave to the left of the stone chamber, the view suddenly opens up, revealing three giant rocks resembling three large pythons stretching their heads out of the cave, hence the name "Three Pythons Emerging from the Cave." In ancient times, a pavilion called "Wangzhou Pavilion" was built on the platform on the cliff, offering a panoramic view of the ancient city.
III. Quick Tips
1. Admission is 70 yuan; free for seniors over 70. Half price for those aged 60-70.
2. Fun fact: Free admission before 7:00 AM and after 6:00 PM!
3. Qingyuan Mountain is very large; at least a full day is needed to see everything.
Recommended Route:
1. Main Gate → Lao Jun Rock → Hongyi Relic Pagoda → Tea at Tianhu Lake → Panoramic View from Nantai Rock → Walk down the mountain.
2. Lao Jun Rock → Wisdom Steps → Thousand Hand Rock → Amitabha Rock → Heavenly Lake → South Terrace Rock → Descend the mountain.
4. Public transportation to Qingyuan Mountain is very convenient, with many buses going directly there. A taxi ride from Quanzhou Old Town takes about 20 minutes.
5. It's recommended to bring rain gear, as the weather in Quanzhou can be unpredictable.