Aba Zhongzhagou: A Captivating and Cool Secret Retreat
Early Departure: Stepping into the Cool Valley from Jiuzhai
The entrance to Jiuzhaigou Valley in June was already a bit sweltering. We drove onto the national highway, and 20 minutes later, turned into Zhongzhagou. As soon as we entered the valley, a wind carrying the fresh scent of grass and trees blew over us. The temperature, four or five degrees lower than at the valley entrance, instantly extinguished the summer heat around us.
The parking lot at the Tea Horse Post Station had quite a few cars. A Tibetan uncle was leading a horse, soliciting business: "Ride the horse to the meadow, it's very windy there, and you can see the snow-capped mountains!" We didn't ride horses; we chose to walk. Following the wooden boardwalk deeper into the valley, the spruce trees on both sides blocked out the sun, allowing only specks of light to filter through the gaps in their branches and leaves. The boardwalk stretched alongside the stream, and all we could hear was the gurgling sound of water.
Seeking Coolness: Whispers of Streams and Forests
After about half an hour of walking, the stream beside the wooden boardwalk suddenly widened, forming an emerald green shallow pool. My friend, who was with me, took off her shoes and stepped in, exclaiming in surprise: "The water is so cool! It's like stepping on ice!" I also squatted down and scooped up a handful of water. It had the unique crispness of a mountain stream. After washing my face, even the tip of my nose felt refreshed.
Continuing along the stream, we occasionally encountered a few suspension bridges spanning the water. The wooden bridges swayed gently with each step. Looking down, we could see small fish swimming in the pool, and looking up, our eyes were filled with lush green – layers of ferns on the mountain walls, and unknown wildflowers even sprouting from cracks in the rocks. A passing Tibetan local smiled and said, "There's a waterfall further in, that's where it gets really cool!"
Exploring the Village: The Aroma of Butter Tea from a Tibetan Home
Rounding a dense spruce forest, several small Tibetan village houses appeared in the mountain hollow. In June, the highland barley around the village in Zhongzhagou had already headed, with lush green fields surrounding the natural wood-colored houses, and prayer flags flapping in the wind on the rooftops. Following the cooking smoke, we entered a Tibetan guesthouse. An A-ma (Tibetan mother) was sitting by the fireplace making butter tea. Seeing us enter, she immediately got up and poured two bowls: "It's hot, have a bowl of butter tea to relieve your fatigue."
The savory and fragrant butter tea had a milky aroma. After drinking it, our stomachs felt warm and cozy, yet not at all hot. The A-ma brought us a plate of tsampa and then pointed out the window, saying, "Look at Sobo Goddess Mountain opposite, the June snow hasn't melted yet." Following her gaze, we saw that the distant mountain peak indeed still had a patch of white snow, glistening in the sun, forming a picturesque contrast with the lush green highland barley fields at the foot of the mountain.
Ascending the Slope: Clouds Rolling and Unrolling on the Meadow
After finishing the butter tea, we climbed the mountain slope behind the village, reaching the open alpine meadow in 10 minutes. In June, the meadow was already covered with green grass, dotted with blue and purple wildflowers. With a gust of wind, the grass swayed like waves, carrying a faint floral scent. We lay on the meadow, watching the clouds drift slowly across the sky. The distant Baizhan God Mountain and Sobo Goddess Mountain faced each other, and the Tibetan village, stream, and forest at the foot of the mountains were all visible.
Several Tibetan children chased and played on the meadow, holding freshly picked wildflowers, their laughter echoing through the valley. My friend took out her camera and captured this scene: under the blue sky and white clouds, the snow-capped mountains, meadow, and small Tibetan houses formed a painting, adding a touch of rustic wild charm that Jiuzhai's waters lacked.
Late Return: A Cool Promise
At four in the afternoon, we started our journey back. The setting sun filtered through the branches and leaves, casting dappled light and shadow on the boardwalk. The sound of the stream was clearer than when we arrived. When we reached the Tea Horse Post Station, the Tibetan uncle was still waiting at the entrance. Seeing us return, he smiled and asked, "Did you have fun? Come again in July, there will be even more flowers on the meadow!"
As the car drove back to Jiuzhaigou, the wind outside the window still carried the coolness of Zhongzhagou. This journey, free from crowded people, allowed me to find a cool secret retreat hidden deep in the mountains amidst the sweltering heat of June. I quietly promised myself that when the flowers bloom across the meadow in July, I must return for this rendezvous with Zhongzhagou.
I. Basic Information about the Scenic Area
1. Geographical Location: Zhongzhagou, Zhangzha Town, Jiuzhaigou County, Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province.
3. Opening Hours: Open all day, all year round.
4. Ticket Fee: Free entry. A cleaning fee of 10 RMB/person is required to enter the meadow. Horse riding and other experience activities are charged separately.
II. Best Travel Time
· Spring (May-June): Grasslands turn green, wildflowers bloom all over the mountains, alpine rhododendrons are in full bloom, the air is fresh, suitable for hiking and spring outings.
· Summer (July-August): Cool climate, average temperature around 20℃, a great place to escape the summer heat, with gurgling streams and lush greenery.
· Autumn (September-October): Colorful forests are dyed, paired with snow-capped mountains and blue skies, creating rich layers of scenery, a golden period for photography.
· Winter (December-February): Quiet snowscapes, silver-clad, few people and secluded scenery, suitable for visitors who prefer tranquility.
III. Transportation Guide
1. Arriving in Jiuzhaigou from outside the area
· Flight: Fly directly to Jiuzhai Huanglong Airport. Take a taxi/shared ride from the airport to Zhangzha Town, then transfer to Zhongzhagou. The journey takes about 1.5 hours.
· High-speed Rail: Take a high-speed train from Chengdu East Station to Zhenjiangguan Station, then transfer to a shared ride/bus to Zhangzha Town. The entire journey takes about 3 hours.
· Self-driving: From Chengdu, take the Rongchang Expressway → G213 National Highway → G544 National Highway. The entire journey takes about 6.5 hours, road conditions are good, and the scenery along the way is stunning.
2. Zhangzha Town → Zhongzhagou
· Taxi/Chartered Car: Take a taxi directly from Jiuzhaigou entrance/Zhangzha Town to Zhongzhagou. The journey takes about 30 minutes, and a one-way trip costs 50-80 RMB.
· Shuttle Bus: Guests staying at hotels such as Luneng Shengdi Resort, Hilton, and Conrad can take the scenic area's exclusive shuttle bus for free.
IV. Recommended Local Delicacies
· Tibetan Hot Pot: Yak meat, wild mushrooms, and highland vegetables cooked in one pot, fresh, fragrant, rich, warming for the body and stomach.
· Hand-torn Yak Meat: Firm texture, original flavor, super delicious with Tibetan dipping sauce.
· Highland Barley Cake, Butter Tea, Tsampa: Tibetan staple foods, experience authentic Tibetan cuisine.
· Stone Pot Chicken: Delicious chicken soup, paired with highland ingredients, nourishing and tasty.